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Still fiddling about - getting a bit worried about water and gas. Got water and changed gas in St J de L well before departure, and although the arithmetic says there is still plenty (dipping water shows half full, but attitude of bows in river belies this, and a bottle of gas usually lasts a month!) my psychological siege complex insists on at least one unused spare of everything I have or might need should be in store.
Sad to leave, but high time.
+/- 6 kms to P. de P. at Canalouse Hire Base at Pontailler. Filled with water - bows were well up, but there must have been a couple of days in the tank, yet - and moved over to long pontoon at entrance in shade. Main moorings very full - double breasting. Main holiday season now.
Up to S.M. (l'Atac ?) - long way out of town - with gas bottle in bike trailer, only to be told - "not on Mondays". The cash kiosk at the fuel station is not open on Mondays, fuel sales credit card machine only, and no key to gas racks kept in main shop office.
Had difficulty believing this, but it is no use arguing - de Gaul taught the French how to say "non", and the "workers" have not forgotten. So, all the way back to the boat with empty gas cylinder and a filthy temper.
Left comfortably mid morning, but the recent heavy rain is now coming down river, and went down like the clappers - expecting to have to spend the night at Auxonne - hate the place - but was into St J de L by late afternoon - 46 kms in theory, but I think that includes the bends that have been short cutted by locks and cuts. The flood was certainly not of the sort that would speed Albert at 10 plus Kms/hr.
Otherwise - fine weather, and pleasant trip.
The object of the exercise was the first part of the return trip to Decize via Fragny just outside Chalons-sur-Saône, on the Canal du Centre, etc.
However, had rush of blood to head, worked out had 2 months to go, why not try to do original season's intention in reverse - i.e. Saône a la Marne, across to the Marne, the Seine, and back to Decize the other way round.
With min preparation - other than water, bread, gas and cash, lit off back up the Saône.
Picked up pre-ordered drive (damper) plate from H2O, to find to personal rage and fury, my credit card had been blocked. Granted, use it very seldom - but even so. Rang the overseas help line - but number not available (numero non attribuer). Tried UK number - 20 minutes hanging on mobile phone to get an answer. Then total disinterest in my problems "we are very busy, at this time (what's wrong with 'now'?), so you must expect to wait". Pointed out was on overseas mobile call, was told I should have rung the overseas help line number I did ring. Told "well anyway, you would have got to the same call centre and waited just as long". This was Lloyds TSB card services - surely there must be more competent and helpful organisations. Will investigate on return to England. Wonder if a French credit card would be better?
The problem with my card? Told a pack of lies about "returned correspondence causing a block to be put on the card". Never mind - these things are but sent to try us - regretfully it is the only thing they do try at. I think the moronic disinterest is the worst part of these occasions.
Trip reasonably similar to others up and down the river - weather fine, sunny, but very windy - but enjoyable, withal.
Moorings at Auxonne completely full - hire boats mooring facing across river stern on to pontoons. Managed to get back half of boat on very front pontoon, by requesting large French private boat to budge down a bit.
They have a large and busy water sports complex opposite the moorings, and for 2 km up river. The sailors and canoeists are fine, but they have 2 or 3 underpowered water ski boats, charging up and down, making a dreadful wash. Most uncomfortable - felt quite sick at one stage, but great to see so many people enjoying water sports. Really don't see what Auxonne could do to alleviate the problem, other than to tell us if we don't like it, moor somewhere else! The moorings are free, anyway!
Did I write about new scheme for charging for electricity and water on popular moorings. They have an free standing electronic gadget painted a singularly vulgar blue, like a cash machine, with a touch screen. One inserts one's bank card, keys in electric point number, pin number, how long you want electricity for, and - theoretically - the electric point is alive for that number of hours. Plug boat in, and away you go. 1 Euro, per hour electricity, I think. All very well, but firstly we get charged £1 on our card for every foreign transaction by our bank, and secondly, I would much rather these horrid little ad hoc organisations did not have access to and facilities to store all my personal details as carried on my card for subsequent distribution to who knows whom and where.
Anyway, didn't need either!
Terrific and very impressive thunderstorm at midnight, centred on a cafe/rowing club upstream. Main electricity pylon struck whilst watching, with sheets and streams of sparks falling off it. Rained very hard indeed for some time, but no apparent problems next day.
Greeted at Saône river lock above Pontailler as long known friend - 3rd passage in 2 weeks!
Turned left into canal right after the lock - super to be back in a canal, without dozens of boats in front, behind, and alongside. Really joyful, and the canal is super - lots of uncapped steel revetts, and the long lengths of the banks completely hidden in jungles of reeds that are an abiding memory of our last trip have been cut back. as well.
Different outlook on water depth to the Burgundy - all gates overflowing, so canal as full as it can be.
L.K.s working the same as the Bourgogne, i.e. 1 L.K. per 2 locks, with transport, but it appears they are just starting the temporary helpers, so very keen, and lots of supervisors about.
The countryside is, of course, very closely agriculture, with both small mixed farms, and huge areas now being ploughed by agribusiness.
Afraid can no longer ignore the fact the colours are changing to Autumnal browns, yellows, and reds!
Arrived at intended stop for the night at so-called mooring point - remember these so well. About 5 metres of concrete jetty on bank side, with a couple of bollards. Fortunately occupied by Scandahoovian yacht, so didn't have to struggle with extra lines. Moored to steel piles opposite, just below the automatic lift bridge and lock.
Fine day, but getting very hot and sweaty.
Very hot humid sticky day, and went on traveling far too long into the late afternoon (it's a lovely canal).
Lots of locks, but L.K.s good and competent.
Moored up to an old silo jetty, unshaded and breezeless.
The long lengths of steel piles revetting the banks of the canal seem to have died out - presumably an ongoing project, and they haven't got as far as here yet. It has to be said - they are not especially attractive - a bushy grassy bank is far nicer to look at than rows of rusty piles - but the great joy of them is that we can choose to moor up at any spot - especially under shady trees if there is a nice view - in comfort and safety, and without having to leap all over the place with hammers and pegs, or look for suitable trees to tie to. There is still - although haven't met any yet - commercial traffic on this canal, and however careful the peniche skippers are, sloppy mooring results in gross indignity of having to run after the boat and catch it.
Beautiful graceful fine bridges over this canal. All the everyday bridges are built in this style - most attractive.
Fascinated by old bridge just below lift bridge. Just like on the Leeds and Liverpool Canal, they built a second bridge exactly on top of the existing one, raising the road bed accordingly.
Country still very attractive, as before, both sorts of mixed farming, and although it's August, green going autumnal.
Frustrated at not having taken a day or so to think out and prepare for this trip, especially as Albert is getting very hot (the engine) and making noises.
The water points marked are either non-existent, or completely inaccessible from a boat. In fact there is only one marked within next 2 or 3 days trips. Going on experience of last 2 days - existence and/or water availability too doubtful to rely on.
None of the villages seem to have bread.
Up betimes with intention to try and do traveling in first part of morning.
Mad dash on bike to 2 villages marked as being close to canal. They were, but no "commerces" at all. Presumably they rely on a traveling bread and epicerie van. We were incredibly lucky last time we came this way - often meeting the vans at most opportune moments at the lock cottages. Nowadays the lock cottages are not occupied by L.K.s so presumably the occupants get their supplies from the S.M. after work, and there's less call for the vans.
But - I had assumed the vans would be about this time as well. Hence comments about bad or no planning or thought
Went to start engine. Ghastly slow grinding, and noises as of flat engine battery - horrors, battery is less than 2 years old, is always properly charged, does no work except start engine, and has given no indication to date of trouble. Eventually engine did start, engine ran very slowly making dreadful rumbling and knocking noises, as though it was trying to escape from the boat unilaterally.
Panic!
Suddenly, it ran fine, and greatly daring I switched off and re-started it. Perfect.
Strong feeling that Albert was protesting - have run him/her hard the whole season making a bit like a greyhound of the ocean, especially up and down the rivers. Had I being forcing the boat too fast along the canal?
Combination of worry over possible engine trouble, lack of supplies in the middle of no-where, and question as to "have I taken on too much?" made for thinking session over breakfast.
Decided to turn back - 4 days experience on this canal extremely valuable in bringing home just what can be achieved, and what should not be attempted.
Would like a mechanic to look at and listen to engine.
I bought the drive plate at H2O (drive plate is the thing between engine and gear box on a boat where a car has the clutch - it transmits turning power from the engine to the gear box to the prop shaft, but cuts out the vibrations, (I think) has lots of little and medium sized springs all round the outside, and is very expensive) because I am suspicious of the one in the boat, anyway.
So if I am already a bit uncertain of our combined capabilities, maybe it would be wiser not to go on.
Anyway, it is still very hot and humid, and both Albert and I need a day off.
Turned round, and motored back down canal rather more gently than coming up.
Rather enjoyed it - Albert - except for background tick-rattle-tock noise behaving perfectly, and this is a lovely canal, and having turned back felt completely relaxed and unworried..
Large village - St Seines Vingeam - marked on map, where supplies obviously would be available, but ran into one of those ridiculous situations one has to be aware of, and make instant quick decisions. Unwittingly ran past the radar of the first of a 4 lock automatic flight, while trying to make up mind what to do, (Quite obvious - stop, moor up, buy bread - it was only 1 km, which is +/- 800 yards) but decision making processes seemed to be on hold.
Having gone past radar, one is accepted into the system, and may not stop until out the other end, or have explained all over tel to L.K. - and it is now Sat afternoon.
Descended chain of 4 autos - realising that not only had I missed sustenance for to-day and to-morrow, but Monday when they all shut was upon us again.
Bit bullet - hard - moored up at bottom of flight, extracted Brompton, and trudged back - 4 km - up flight towing path, and found - exceedingly well sign-posted boulangerie, and resolved commissariat problems. Tried cross country short cut back to boat, but not a success.
Found a water point - steep bank, rough cut wet earth steps and tatty rope rail up to top. Water tap on side of VNF office over road on left of picture, but very long hose supplied. Watered up - but quite an adventure! But, what a relief.
Wandered further on down and found stretch of canal revetted on both sides, so able to choose a spot shaded now, and plan move this afternoon to evening shade on other side. In fact, near St Saveur bridge, found spot where trees completely overhang water, moored up, and happiness.
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