May 30

Sunday

Garnat sur Engievre to 1 lock short of Pierrefitte.

Bit more gossip with Brooks, comparing N.B. things like seats and brass cleaning, winter moorings, and such like.

Mother's Day in France, a very important festival taken very seriously.

S. went for bread in village, while I did boat things - more gossip with "Rosie", then we set off at about 11.00.

Blazing hot, bright sun. Both felt more and more limp - shade for cockpit vital to life!

Countryside still rural and peaceful, on the whole, but centres of industry, like the "Peugeot Foundry" - colossal factory totally closed and lifeless (Sunday?) - etc, resulting in - combined with the fact it is Sunday - lots of fishermen, each with 3 or 4 rods.

Passed junction to blind opening up to Dompierre sur Besbre, with lock immediately beyond with Dutch Barge just entering from the far side, totally filling the standard lock. One could probably get 12 Alberts in! Height wise as well - they only just clear the exit bridge. This was actually the 2nd Dutch Barge we met to-day - another took off to-wards us from his moorings just in front of us about 3 miles back. Later, just before mooring up, we met a genuine "Peniche" - working boat. Most have been converted into Hotel Boats, or cut up to prevent permanent squats on outside of towns. It looked like a house wall beside us, and again totally filled the lock to within 3" all round.

Usual short 3 hours at least lunch break, followed by late "knock-off " time at 16.30. Life on a boat is hard. No wonder our diesel consumption is less than 1 gallon per day.

Read map, and saw that Route Nationale 79 - virtually a motorway with 1 lane only each way - was on the point of joining the canal, and would remain within a few feet - literally - of it right into Digoin, so stopped quite suddenly at lock exit of 2nd lock up from Pierrefitte sur Loire. Here we were well within earshot, but still about 100 yards away from the road which roared all night.

Snugged down and then were attacked by heavy thunderstorm and hail. Able to sit outside when it cleared, but very buggy, and still a bit damp and humid.

 

May 31

Monday

Pierrefitte sur Loire to Digoin.

Set off, as promised to L.K. at 0930, and as usual found everything ready for us, through and into Pierrefitte moorings.

Considerable danger now of all out strike by skipper and crew over heat from sun in cockpit.

The "Anchor shade" brolley cum sun-shade previously mentioned, and only ever used 2 or 3 times (bought at Boat Show 98) was rigged, and proved superb for the job. Only snag was that it is wider than Albert, so had to be "flopped" over to one side in locks. God help us if we are ever seen at Braunston, or on the Grand Union, going along with a square oversized brolley shading our so-called "traditional" stern.

Morale improving out of all proportion to the amount of work involved in installation (but not in relation to original cost, it was bloody expensive) and we puttered happily along a more urban stretch of canal to Digoin.

The fact that this stretch was more urbanised does not mean it was horrid.

There was no litter or rubbish, and little or no graffiti. Everything was neat and tidy, and very civilised, and enjoyable to drive through or past.

All fishermen greeted and waved and were polite.

Into Digoin.

Most impressive, we actually had to go passed the entrance to the canal to Roanne by just over a mile, but well worth it, and besides we needed to pick up "Poste Restante" and beer, milk and beer, bread and beer, other things and beer, and beer.

The entrance to the town was over a massive aqueduct, 234 metres long, with some 11 arches, over the R. Loire (technical information from a post card). Unfortunately, one can not see an aqueduct when one is in or on it, so we will moor up to-morrow and go and have a look. Thence into one of the deepest locks we have ever been in - 4 to 5 metres - but managed by L.K. (I couldn't even get out of the boat) so well that although we came up like in a lift, the boat never moved or jiggled. Side paddles, apparently.

Through the town, as stated very clean, neat and tidy, into "Port de Plaisance", proper moorings to you and I. Got stung ff35.00, because I thought "libre" meant "free" cashwise, it doesn't, it means "free" spacewise, and of course there was plenty of space on a Monday evening. "Free" cashwise - I shall perpetually remind myself is "gratuite".

Trotted off to do chores - met English quartet - 1 of whom had their boat at Skipton, but were visiting friends with a Dutch type steel boat - I am not sure they were enjoying themselves. The owners had scared themselves badly, being one of the first across the Loire at Decize (we had met them when we arrived the first time at Saint Leger, when they were waiting to go, and very gung-ho they were too) and only just made it up the Loire, and then helped through the automatic locks by VNF staff. The guests own a N.B. in Skipton and were homesick!

Trotted off to supermarket, milk, water (our water is suspect for S's stomach is misbehaving, and we have made a pact to drink only bottled water - tap water if boiled for tea, etc) and bread. Traffic - all on the wrong side of the road - quite horrific, far worse than the A417 past Chalford, and road much narrower. vvvccc

Heavy thunderstorm with strong wind hit us. Canard a la Poivre for supper. Weather cleared after to nice clear cool evening.

Our ff35.00 seem to be, in fact, quite good value!

   

June 1

Tuesday

Digoin to just short of Avrilly (PK 41) on Canal Roanne de Digoin..

Clear bright morning after reasonably disastrous night.

Port de Plaisance is just under and alongside a bridge over the canal which carries our old friend the N79 - a 2 lane road that carries more lorry traffic than the A419 through Stroud. On top of that, there is a gap in the roadway, so every lorry crashed and banged, and there are traffic lights on the far side of the bridge.

Did a bit of boat cleaning just before 9.00, but really a loosing battle - the showers and rain storms we get daily conspire to make Albert a very dirty boat. Very hot, with strong bright sun.

Decided that buying 2 or 3 cases of beer at supermarket impracticable - too far to carry, and much too hot.

Took boat - with "anchor shade" up, back to entrance of town, and moored up to bollards - some doubt about this, the bollards had their cross pieces cut off, and were more pretty looking than practical.

However, trotted up to business part of town cashed travellers cheque in incredibly hot bank - no air conditioning, and no fan, and teller had a bad cold - communicating difficult. But after long wait got the cash - why are these things so difficult?

Then to post office - post Restante not arrived yet - slightly unreasonable to expect it, but no harm in trying.

Then to motor spares establishment for yet 2 more fan belts - we could almost tow Albert with all the spare fan belts we have now.

Back to boat - fever to get moving out of the heat, and have lunch under shady cool tree away from tar roads and cut stone.

Wandered out about 11.30, over aqueduct, and into same lock again. Spooky.

Down smoothly w/o tying up, and out after warning about lock opening times (0800 to 1200, 1300 to 1930) into wide entrance canal to town. Bloody hot - seriously hot.

Found shady tree, congratulated ourselves, tied up, got chairs out, and then 4 million mosquitoes arrived in multi-squadrons. Tried to laugh it off for a few minutes, but they were pouring through the side hatch. Up sticks and wandered from little patch of breeze to little patch of breeze, describing slow circles with the boat, and gasping.

Through entry lock to Roanne canal - lock-keeper nice girl in straw hat (and other conventional clothing unfortunately) - and on to very deep - 6 metre - lock. Side paddles, so very smooth.

Ran into trouble - map didn't agree with ground P.Ks, and at least one village mooring spot seemed to have disappeared.

Still very hot, but soldiered on - this canal is very old, and being a side branch has not received the attention the others have, so most of the old (150 yrs +) revetments have rotted away and not been replaced. There are enough debris, or the banks have fallen in enough, to preclude casual mooring. Eventually after a lot of trials, getting increasingly hot and tired, we were still looking moorings when almighty thunderstorm hit us. Just had time to get the "anchor shade" brolley - it would not have survived the hail.

Eventually found a spot - after the storm hot humid and sweaty again.

Later hit by further storms - including very heavy wind storm, which threw branches, leaves, and all types of rubbish all over Albert - and air cooled sufficiently for reasonable comfort, and for yet 2 more cuckoos to do their thing.

We must have heard cuckoos on every single day since we came to France! In England it was possibly once a year. The birds twitter in the canalside trees all day, dawn to dusk, very loudly.

Pleasant undisturbed night.

 

 

June 2

Wednesday

Avrilly to Artaix.

Day of Drama!

Went to do engine checks, and found lots of green water all over floor of engine room. Horrid.

Sponged it up and put it back into the engine from whence it came. Somewhat worried - had we burst a radiator hose, had we blown a cylinder head gasket in yesterday's heat.

Started off, anyway with radiator re-filled to the top of both radiator caps.

Ran very nicely, and cool, for about 1.5 hours, then started warming up - not excessively, except weather now cool enough for engines not to overheat!

Water on floor again, but source not found - no drips.

Bright thought - was it coming from the overflow cap down the pipe. Found this to be the case, and found further - on reading instruction book - that wrong cap was on wrong inlet/outlet. They are different, but does it really matter???

Messed about changing things as we went along, but it does not appear that we have done any damage, although obviously we must watch things more carefully on very hot days.

Not yet cured, and still not sure to what extent, and if, we are overworking engine with the large prop and new gear box. Perhaps we went too hard and fast in the VERY hot weather.

Almighty bloody rain storm early lunch time - choice of standing in wet clothes, driving, or standing in wet clothes sweating in wet weather kit and driving.

Stopped for lunch, to be overtaken by enormous Peniche of the disabled people/school education trip type, but couldn't make out which - pretty blue, but they go incredibly slowly.

Arrived below string of 3 locks managed by one L.K. just as it was starting up.

Had to wait about 1.5 hours while it negotiated all 3 locks. No hardship. L.K. had the most ghastly harridan of a wife - black haired blonde half grown out with child that wanted to commit suicide in lock (7 metre deep lock)

On about 1.5 kms after lock, found very pretty lay by with Luxmotor (a type of Dutch Barge - very beautiful and mouth-watering - flying American flag.

Pulled in, and were made very welcome (too welcome?) and lots of incompetent help in tying up. Then noticed that there were 2 or 3 lots of campers, and a motor home in the vicinity. Considered going on, then the French contingent on the luxmotor turned out to be guests and pushed off.

Boss man from luxmotor made admiring/hinting noises about Narrow Boats, so offered to show him over.

Ferdy and Judy from "Riverdance". Moor up for winter in Roanne.

Went and called wife first, which gave us a chance for quick tidy and wash-up. Gave them some supermarket Cote du Rhone! He was German naturalised America - made his pile, she born Yank. Apart from the boat - "Riverdance" they own Some "real estate" in Dallas. (no we didn't ask!)

Went to see their boat after - I find these visits disturbing, we travel on a boat on the French Waterways in our retirement, therefore, ergo, we are rich.

People with these big boats ARE rich (they couldn't run the boats, else) and this leaves us feeling spare.

These boats are super - everything that opens and shuts from bow thrusters to washing machines and spin dryers, to VHF What they don't have is flexibility - they have to plan and organise their trips ahead - no just tying up to the bank for the night or lunch.

BUT it must be said - they are the ultimate in "Toys for Boys"

We eventually escaped from them (or the eventually got rid of us) at about 2100 - still broad daylight - and we had supper! They had eaten with their French friends! We didn't let on.

Weather had pulled itself to-gether, was much cooler and more civilised.

Pyjamas in bed again.

 

 

June 3

Thursday

Artaix to Cornillon Lock.

Slept much better in cooler conditions.

Went on trying things with engine cooling - eventually ran extended plastic pipe from radiator overflow into bucket.

About quarter of an inch ran into the bucket, then it stopped, and water temperature stayed down - now what. Engine sounded very happy (?). One wonders.

Twice weekly local bread delivery van arrived just as we were unmooring (drew attention to himself with dreadful van horn). S. dashed over - extremely convenient. French baguettes - the local variety anyway - get very tough after about 8 hours storage. Good toasted for about 3 days, though. Therefore, we have to find a bread outlet at least every other day, and preferably every. Bought eggs from the cottage at the same time.

Set off swearing undying friendship with "Riverdance"s, as one does on these occasions (she had done her make up for the occasion) as we set off in opposite directions.

Further dramas followed.

Dropped loo in canal when carrying out essential morning operation.

Reversed boat hurriedly - fortunately loo fell face down, so air (probably foetid) kept it afloat, but it went down wind faster than we could reverse. Eventually got it, and completed operation, then dropped spout cap into the canal. Lips were now tight - they normally are during this operation which is carried out very surreptitiously.

Again fell face down, so it floated, practice had made perfect, so we got it quickly - fortunately - what does one do with a capless loo bottom?

Shortly after met Peniche trip boat full of old ducks having wine lunch. Much not very sober cheering and good wishes.

Captain/driver - standing at obligatory large steering wheel and complete with white shirt, tie and epaulets with gold stripes on them - saluted us gracefully with a slow lofty wave of the hand.

Passed Briennon - had thought of lunching there, and had vaguely considered it for winter moorings, but dead and alive, and overpowering smell of diesel everywhere, not a soul about, so continued round the corner looking for decent mooring. Found a lock, and a L.K. escorting (in his little white van on the towing path) the largest and most beautiful Dutch Barge/Peniche/Luxmotor we had seen yet appeared ahead. He told us to forget going through for an hour, so we told him "take 2 - we are eating". The taking of a meal by anyone is totally sacred and CANNOT be interfered with. The L.K. was duly respectful, so we lunched, and went through mid-afternoon.

Realised we were going to arrive in Roanne before ready, so 4 pin tie up for night about 8 kms out on a sloping stoned bank side on pretty and nice spot.. Should be OK if wind doesn't bang us about.

It did.

Did shower waste leak - successfully?

Weather very changeable - hot humid, thundery showers, strong cool winds all in succession over 3 hours.

Freezing session crouching on bank in howling gale with PC and tel in grass to collect and send e-mail.

Fixed shower waste.

 

June 4

Friday

Cornillon Lock into Roanne.

Day cold and grey, overcast and horrid.

Got going very late, fiddling about with engine, and so on.

Canal now like wide version of Basingstoke - a little linear world of nature within a lining 2 or 3 deep of trees and long grass, with small scruffy grassy farms and industry just outside.

In all fairness, on occasion got some lovely views of reasonably close settled - smallholdings - green meadows, and tiled roofs right over and beyond R. Loire to the hills. The canal always seems to be up above surrounding mean level, so view is downwards.

Into Roanne basin before lunch.

Slipped into entry lock, masterly inactivity all round, then saw fellow in small Dutch Barge with English Narrow boat breasted alongside gesticulating wildly.

Felt Spare!

Eventually (5 - 10 mins) L.K. appeared - it was to him that the guy had be gesticulating, he was cutting a hedge, and knew not that he had custom.

Into basin - 1.4 kms long, and 400 metres wide - tied up behind gesticulator.

Started gossiping before even tied up - is there a psychological something or other here, I ask myself ?

Got the gen - this looks a good harbour - scattering of all sorts of craft around sides - mostly Dutch Barge type of boats, or big steel cruisers (even a "Tokoloshe" flying Red Ensign, but with new S.A. flag on mast - very large expensive boat).

Met up with harbour master - ff30 for mooring, and ff18 per day for mains electricity.

Stay till Monday p.m.

Went S.M. shopping - dropped case of beer, but they replaced - didn't like to suggest that they sold me the damaged case at knock-down price, but a VERY heavy load in ruck-sack - beer, wine, limonade (that is the correct spelling here), ginger ale, potatoes, food, and heaven knows what all.

Drinks to "learn the form" next door, to find that their English narrow boat was well known to us on the Avon as "Thorne Bird", and for years used to moor just above old Harry's shack at the pump out station at Wyre Piddle. Peter and Chris ("Amity" min Dutch Barge) Have had her for last 3 to 4 years, and sold her last week. He used to work for G.C.H.Q. until made redundant then brought boat out to France, and he and /partner (?) wife "dropped out". - Like us! These people all seem to be a hell-of-a-lot younger than us.

Also confirmed other people's opinion that Roanne is a good place to winter boat - fairly large town, but proud of it's "port" with proper supervisory staff and facilities.

Rang Peachment re engine "overheating". Reckon it was air bubbles - large ones - in cooling system, and if really thoroughly overheated would have shown burnt paint, etc. Then found that suspect radiator cap is totally suspect - can actually blow through it - no wonder water is escaping.

 

June 5

Saturday

Stayed in Roanne.

Supposed to be a day for cleaning boat and engine, doing remainder of shopping, buying new radiator cap, etc.

Day started with grey drizzle, and carried right on through raining so nothing much was done until p.m.

Bought gas - right bloody curfufle, English bottles not acceptable, so have to buy new contract/bottle - ff220 a time - + the gas (ff99), and have to get it at super market in town so drag little trolley all over. Anyway, one more Frenchisation overcome, but we will have the other bottle to do in a couple of weeks.

Then decided to book winter moorings here to park Albert from 1 Oct/Nov 99 to 30th Apr 00 - price ff1100, (£110). B.W. at Patch Bridge, Gloucester and Sharpness, used to charge us just under £400 for Oct to March incl, + license. Sounds alto-gether too good to be true - we'll see.

Arranged to empty loo - drop key in letterbox after use!

Still raining.

Drink C de R and have supper!

Nipped round to loos and emptied ours - not fun, but what to do? Party in meeting hall - part of same building as Captainerei - didn't they want loo? Apparently not - powerfully bladdered people, these French.

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