July 13

Back down river to P.K. 389 - Cendrecourt.

This apparent aberration is so that we are not trapped in by closed holidaying locks on the Canal de l'Est, above Corre where we leave the river.

Reckon if we stay on the river till Thursday morning, at least we know where we are - and it is really very pleasant here.

A Swiss family in an A.C.C. have just driven and moored up. They are also commenting on what a huge country France is - and also stated that the great majority of the population is concentrated in the cities - hence the emptiness - which we have already noted and commented on - of the countryside.

Had a very long breakfast as had tasked myself to turn the boat and scrub the weed off the other side.

Much cooler, and not a very jolly job, anyway, so put it off as long as possible.

Eventually got stuck in about 10.30 - must have been a truly remarkable sight - elderly gent wearing hat, underpants and spectacles in French river scrubbing all hell out of an English narrow boat.

Pleased when job done - will it last?

Wandered back down - actually came down very fast - to mooring of night before last to find a hire boat in occupation.

However, plenty of room, and went into spot occupied by other A.C.C. In fact the better of the 2 moorings.

Were entranced to watch a pair of wagtails feeding their young in a nest in the bank about 3 feet from the boat, which was unwittingly moored right across their nest. They must be used to it, as this is a very obvious overnight stop, and must be occupied 4 or 5 nights a week. We decided not to move - the resulting disturbance would be greater than our staying quietly, and anyway, some other boat would probably move onto the site. There were 5 chicks.

Whilst on the subject - have seen lots of Kingfishers on both rivers and canals, including one the day before yesterday, only about 20 yards away, hovering then diving and catching a fish - a very small one. Never seen or heard of them hovering before. It the flew off with a mate.

Rain again - thunderstorm in the evening, so back inside, then out, then in again! Lots of bugs.

Coffee and cookies as guests of the Swiss family in the A.C.C. 2 small boys - 7 and 4 - nice and immaculately behaved - Pa a crashing bore very conscious of his value to the world of international trade and international athletics - probably in advertising or PR. Ma very plain, but quite nice, but "knows her place" in the Swiss/German family group. Looks like an athlete.

Remained on mooring as L.K. at Corre had told us Soanne Automatic locks would remain open, but those on Canal de l'Est would be switched off, so no point in going up.

Slightly dull day - very strong wind, with intermittent showers and thunderstorms.

Showed Swiss family Wagtail's nest from inside the boat, but got the impression that they didn't know what the fuss was about.

Sat around, read books, went for walk, and watched large numbers of hire boats and trains full of new cars go past.

Fitted exhaust fan in loo to get smell and shower damp out. Works, but got switching wrong - have to stuff brown wire into hole to make it work - back to the drawing board??

Cendreacotte to la Baisse-Vaivre.

Finally got away to get on with trip.

Checked out wagtails' nest - empty and silent. Opinion, based on the fact that there was endless ary-bargy early (from very first light) this morning, and the boat roof and side deck on the shore side were covered (tons of it) with bird droppings, that the chicks had flown, and used Albert as take off platform. Could have been rat or some such making clean sweep, but no sign of feathers or struggles, and what birds crapped all over the boat?

Early start at our usual 10.30.

Corre lock open, but L.K. obviously had a real Bastille Day hangover - didn't know what day of the week it was, let alone that it was his lunch time.

Through to pleasant Port de Plaisance in Corre we used earlier in week, tied up, had lunch and filled water (10 francs!)

Intended to go straight to supermarket (just over road) for heavy stuff like beer, wine, lemonade, water, brandy etc, but Dutch couple wanted to see boat and swap stories.

1.5 hours later, trotted over and did our thing for the greater commercial good of France.

The significance of these occasions is being able to take S.M. trolley direct to boat from check-out.

Pulled out from moorings about 16.30, but some idiot German/Swiss decided they would be competitive in a hire boat, and nip through the bridge first.

Gave them a fright by going for it, nipping them against the bank, then pulling back. Quite naughty!

Shared first lock with them - 8 adult men of inderteminate middle age, all struggling to hold boat still at lock front, with ropes everywhere - probably queer.

Hung back at second lock - felt safer on our own.

Countryside pleasantly bucolic, but heavily wooded with thick dark broad-leaved trees/woods, with fields sweeping up to them very abruptly, where there are fields.

Found rather nice forest mooring, but German/Swiss ensconced at one end - went to other end, some 100 metres.

Had supper - tried vin ordinaire in 5 litre plastic barrels - Fr 37.50 - quite nice for price, but a bit thin. Splendid chicken curry.

Swiss/Germans got out squeeze box and started a sing-song. They can actually sing, so decided it must be the annual outing of the superannuated Vienna Boys' Choir Old Boys. Would prefer their silence! Bloody people!

Last thing a fully loaded peniche came down. Named "Merdeka". This was the cry in Malaya in the 1960s when that country got it's independence. Whence the connection?

The peniche was going dead slow, but ploughing a great gout of mud all through the moorings area - must have been on the bottom all the way. The disturbance pulled one of our pins out - not surprised.

la Baisse-Vaivre to Port de Bains.

The Swiss/German singers left early - thank goodness and left site to us.

Got away comfortably - cool grey morning - sweat-shirts the order of the day.

Steadily up through the automatic locks, watching speed - we are told they like to check on our times between locks, and fine us if we exceed 6 km/h - 3.6 m.p.h. This is a ridiculous speed, and no-one seems interrupted anyway - old wives tale? Prefer not to try it out.

Telephone call lunch time - once again we'll try and overcome Crapuserve this evening.

Up into Fontenoy le Chateau. A nice village, but completely overshadowed by Crown Blue Line, who run the moorings - quite long, and more than adequate - and a hire business. They are the largest hire boat company in France, and have several fleets scattered around the system. They appear to be very competent - but it seems unlikely that much of their turn-over is spent locally - except wages. How could it be?

Tried to buy maps, no joy, and went into village to buy bread and soup.

Don't like these places - feel all uncomfortable with the hirers and the staff (understandably they find us a damn nuisance), and the German and Belgian private boats who seem to gravitate to places like this, tie up to all the available moorings and generally act in a bombastic and know-all manner in a loud voice.

Pulled out at 16.30, feeling very relieved into first manual lock for weeks.

Now was the chance to work off the beer sugar.

However, in July and August all locks are fully manned, and any that might be a bit busy have a second keeper.

Was eventually able to close the odd gate behind us - a telephone message from the first L.K. had ensured that all locks ahead were set in our favour - by creeping silently into the lock, and nipping up the ladder before the L.K. realised we had arrived.

On the way out, of course, we only use 1 gate, and that is L.K.'s prerogative. Also, one may not open paddles! Not done. We don't rope up, either - just sit at the back of the lock and keep boat straight with engine. This only works if we have the lock to ourselves, but we usually do

The country has become eve darker and more closely wooded as we "mounted", but as the sun was out for most of the day this meant cool working in dappled sunlight.

Moored up eventually 1800 by a dried out "etang" with some difficulty - road alongside canal separated only by concrete and stone wall, so no-where for pegs, other side steep bank, very shallow with stones. Found very pleasant spot after 45 minutes of faffing, where road verge widened.

Seat on roadside in exactly the right place for evening drinks.

Visited by 3rd L.K. wanting to know start time to-morrow. Also gave us a survey questionnaire. Pointed out that there was no place on it to ask for a V.N.F. tee shirt, and that since seeing the hunky beast in one 2 locks down, Madame had set her heart on having one of her own. L.K. undertook to bring her one to-morrow - a tee shirt only. He also refused a beer with a long explanation about his stomach and alcohol. We are still enjoying speaking, but here is one of the disadvantages of automatic locks - one speaks to no-one. We have hardly spoken since the Thornes were here, and I was requested to tell his bank that he didn't like the rate of exchange he was getting for his travelers cheques 3 weeks ago.

Tried Compuserve again - e-mail appears to be fine now, but have still to overcome silly business of security on Paul's website. Insufficient signal to make contact, so gave it up.

Tried to re-install Compuserve - OK - and "InternetExplorer".

Port des Bains to les Forges d'Uzemaine.

Good day. Sun to greet us when we awoke - first time for a long time.

Celebrated with cornflakes for breakfast.

Our mooring - very doubtful about it last night - turned out good. Boat didn't move, gang plank lank stayed put, everything neat and tidy.

The canal here runs through heavily forested and woodland areas, but combined with the sun is not overpowered - trees seem to start well back from the bank, and the towing path strip is wide, with a single line of occasional trees on the outside side. The effect is pleasant and friendly, rather than the dark lowering effect on the R. Saonne.

We were just getting up when a "well used" Dutch barge passed us going down with Citroen type Jeep on the front, a tatty plastic run-about on the davits, "Adele", girl "good morning, how are you, fine thanks how are you" English, dumb boy friend. and pa driving. No flag, but obviously English. Super boat for family with teen age children - trouble is, no one with teen age children can afford either time or money for that sort of thing.

Weather got steadily warmer, as we proceeded (monte-ed ) the flight - some 14 or 15 locks, all manned skillfully or not - by student temporaries.

The fact that they are manned is, on the whole, a help.

reasonable amount of traffic - mostly Scandinavian and Low Countries' yachts, no hire craft at all.

Re-met our friend from last night, presented him with his questionnaire, and post-card of the Gloucester Boat Museum. In due course he came back with much prized VNF (L.K.'s) tee shirt! Immediately donned by S. to the joy of all, including many gongoozlers.

Originally intended to get up to the summit above Epinal to-day, but after lunch, and after a particularly dosy student lock keeper who seemed to have drained his pound - and the one above, it became obvious that we had no chance.

Pulled into old peniche loading bay at Forges d'Uzemain - 2 cruisers in residence - on assumption it would be reasonably quiet, and although water low we should be OK.

At time of writing 2 local dogs in neighbouring houses have been barking and yapping now-stop for about an hour.

The next door boat is watching telly - can hear the sound as continuous hooting in the back-ground.

We have been joined by 2 yacht things from Holland - slightly strange.

There are to be fireworks from the bridge over the canal to-night.

The minor road near us is full of noisy motor-bikes and scooters.

The farm over the way is running it's feed grinder continuously.

We never seem to learn that a poor bush mooring is invariably better than any formal "mooring".

However, the weather is still fine, and anything is survivable in the short term.

Later - the dog barking reached a crescendo, with wolf like moon baying, then presumably the wretched things were fed, as silence has reigned since (We think they are breeding those dreadful wall eyed wolf like creatures they love so here).

Everyone else has settled down - there is a peniche half in the lock, but whether that is because he is stuck on the sill, or has just moored there for the night we will know to-morrow.

The VNF tee shirt has gone down a treat. I was wearing it when L.K. came to find out our intentions for to-morrow and shook us warmly by the hand as colleagues! Distinct air of jealousy on moorings. They are only Germans and Dutch and Belgians anyway, we avoid the Brits, they're boring. (This is the "ours bruin" syndrome again.

les Forges d'Uzemaine to Girancourt/Chaumousey (on the summit)

Noisy and crowded moorings turned out OK.

Mixed with no-body, just glowered if they came near. (Those stuck up Brits in that strange boat)

Fireworks non happenstance, dogs slept through till b'fast time when someone must have fed them, and the biggest worry of all - the big peniche that spent the night in the lock - was not stuck on the cill, but pushed off at 0745 never to be seen again.

As arranged, approached lock at 0900, but were kept waiting whilst down coming boat watered in the lock. So much for giving V.N.F. start times - we have been getting pretty cynical recently, anyway!

Watered ourselves, as lock hose was out, and went on up. Canal VERY nice, in thick forest, but never overshadowed. This section is the final flight up to the summit with locks (each 3 metre rise- in UK 3 feet quite a lot!) every 500 metres.

Weather warm to hot, sunny, so time spent hanging around for lock to open could be uncomfortable.

On this canal - Canal de l'Est, Branch Sud - locks are traditionally closed on Sundays. (Think of the traffic jams on Mondays) In recent years they have been manned Sundays in July and August, with the help of students. (There is a hire company down at Fontenoy le Chateau who probably have governmental ears)

Shared with German cruiser going up this morning - complete twit - boat heaving all round everywhere - wife having kittens - boat crashing every which way, boat connected to lock-side with web of loose knitting.

To-day being Sunday, regulars were thin on the ground, and the students appear to have family picnics in place of work. Difficult to get some of the lazy little sods going. Worst of all were a couple of pseudo males with baby faces and typical student goatees (queers?). The girls were super (in every way) worked hard, and did their best. The rest of them had left one girl totally on her own to work one lock with 4 gates, eight paddles and stinking hot, and German boats complaining.

We reckon to hop off up the ladder and help if there is only one person present - but virtually all of them had boy- girl- gongoozle- friend assistants, even the nancy boys. Must have done about half, but found a nice mooring on the summit pound at about 17.30, in the shade, after 20 locks, and called it a day.

Tried to get www going yet again having re-set everything - but usual message. Got e-mails from all - good.

Then tried to arrange pic-nic with Steve and Anthea for Tuesday over tel written message system. Good giggle - see if it works. Probably end up in gas-works in Belgium.

Note that the German boat that had St Vitus' dance in locks this morning was about 200 yards up on canal side mooring.

Girancourt/Chaumousey (on the summit) to Igney.

Started off in good cool fettle after night of extremely hairy thunderstorms - sounded and flashed as though who fandangle was coming through front door.

Heavy and prolonged rain, made worse by showers of drips every time wind blew.

Some 2 hours lock free along summit, through unexciting and indeterminate villages, then onto flight down to Epinal, 15 locks nose to tail.

L.K. on top lock muttering thunderously - having ensured that I couldn't speak enough French to understand him. Something about 2 yachts that should have arrived and didn't - only us.

Next lock down, - each lock had it's own keeper, and to-day being Monday, professionals, not students - there was something up - morale low.

Then a prolonged hoot told all the world that the promised yachts or something had arrived to annoy top lock-keeper.

Subject of prolonged mirth, and discussions on M. le Mutters. Explained "mutters" in Fr Fr and miming, and suspect name has stuck.

Whole operation became fun, walked between locks, easier than getting on and off the boat for 150 metre ride.

Lunch in lock half way Down (shared whole flight with same German boat as battled so coming up) and managed to shame him into doing his share of the work.

They still joined their boat to the land with knitting, even going downhill.

Into Epinal about lunch time, and wandered down the side branch that leads into the town.

Lovely town - good town moorings, albeit a bit traffic and disco ridden - enormous - destroyed in 1940 and 1944, so re-built sensibly with great broad streets. Found supermarket on way in and left overheated S. there whilst looking for maps and cash point.

Left to continue about 1600, to find suitable spot for Steve and Anthea picnic.

Settled on Igney, from map, and tied up for night on grassy bank, shallow.

Communicated - successfully through text messages on phone. Managed to loose 2 messages in the black hole, but got 3rd one away confirming to-mo9rrow.

Did washing - had kept charge booster on for last 1 hour of trip, and had no trouble with machines at all.

Except as soon as put out to dry, rain re-started!

Peniche passed and ripped pegs out - not his fault - canal is relatively narrow.

Pleasant, quiet and cool night.

Igney.

Moved up to lock mooring in morning in light rain.

Moored up to peniche proof moorings - 1 ring and 3 pins - and settled down to await lunch party.

Cleaned boat, inside and out.

Put chairs out under tree near boat and waited! Very lucky - spot very nice and totally suitable.

Then sadness - found we had left 2nd of Natal Parks Board 1 litre beer tankards on lockside yesterday after hurried resumption of service after lunch. First was left on R. Soar the day we took delivery of Albert, in exactly the same way.

S. and A. arrived at 2.30 - we had lunched by then - having rung us twice for more directions, after loosing their tel/text directions and the way through not having a map.

If anyone else even vaguely considers looking for us without AT LEAST the Michelin 1:200,000 road guide (which has the canals marked and named) they will be given directions that will lead them either to Warsaw or Edinburgh - or both. BE WARNED!

Very pleasant gossipy lunch, slow informal and relaxed. Fun.

They left at 1900 to continue their drive to England.

Had yet 1 more attempt to get into "Paul's Page" on the web. Cost a bomb, but no go.

"Error 401, author has not supplied authorisation for accessing page".

Weather very varied - morning rain cleared up then wind, sometimes cool, and sometimes warm.

Lunched in the boat, but sat out before and afterwards.