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- September 5th
- Sunday
Gissey le Viel to just beyond
Braux, Canal de Bourgogne.
Traditional Sunday morning start -
boiled eggs and very late.
Then off for 90 minutes through
most fabulous country - huge area visible from canal - probable views stretching
5 to 10 miles. Parts look like thoroughly Europeanised South Africa, with little
villages of red roofs dotted around higgledy-piggledy.
Stopped just before day's first
lock at 12.00.
Set too on bank in shade with
extension lead from boat (battery on P.C. useless) to do log from Didgery to
P.C. Sent off, and got a cheeky message from a convict colony.
Passed through Port Royale - about
2 minutes after the lock - good moorings, but totally sun exposed - no shade
whatever. 2 boats and peniche moored up.
First vines showed up soon after,
(remember this is Burgundy) but looked dreadful and abandoned.
Canal lined with Poplar trees -
busy shedding their leaves. Lots of Mistletoe in these and other trees.
We seem to be in an area of
agribusiness - gentle slopes with large fields that go on for ever.
Stopped soon after Braux lock -
the arithmetic ahead of close grouped locks and short pounds did not look good,
so stopped where we could moor nicely, and have some shade and a view.
Unfortunately, did not check map
carefully enough. There is a busy concealed road just 2 fields away, and the
evening has turned into one of those quiet clear evening when everything is
audible.
In actual fact there was no
traffic on the road after about 1830, so mooring most satisfactory!
September 6th
Monday
Braux to Lock 36 - Magny le Ville,
Canal de Bourgogne.
Rained for a large proportion of
night and morning, and up to midmorning. Didn't quite have energy to wake up
properly and shut back door, so noise of rain on rear tarpaulin kept us slightly
awake.
Set off 0830 - early start planned
to get down a reasonable portion of 37 lock in 12 km flight, with all locks set
against us - custom on this canal to leave all locks empty with bottom gates
open, regardless - singularly stupid!
Good start - as we arrived at
first lock, lady L.K. appeared to see us through.
Borrowed special windlass off her,
and set off to wheel up front. Went well - initially on foot, latterly, and for
most of the day, on bicycle.
The trouble with this game is that
one concentrates on the technicalities of doing the job quickly and adequately,
but never looks up to see the countryside.
We did look up! The country is
superb. In this valley there are gentle slopes, frequent quite large area of
forest, with cultivation, as it were, carved out from them, and, it has to be
said, areas abandoned and tumbling back to forest
Did 1 flight then tried to stop at
village - Marigny la Couhet - mooring for water and bread. Next lock at end of
moorings opened for us very ostentatiously, amid cries of better to moor next
pound down.
It wasn't - especially when we
demanded a proper answer as to where the next water was and discovered a long
way in front - 2 days! There was, in fact, nowhere to moor in the next pound
down!
Stopped and stayed put - this must
have been one of the villages that tried to get on the tourist band wagon - nice
picnic spot, trees, barbecues benches and tables, water point, etc. But, for an
undisclosed reason, the mooring length has recently been revetted, piling with
earth and stones put in canal on water side of piles so no way can any boat lie
to the canal side without mashing it's prop, and lying on it's side.
Extraordinary! We stick our bows hard in, and let the back end dangle in the
channel.
Went on after lunch, but a bit
worn. Out of training. Spent the summer standing on the back of the boat like
Lord Muck, doing nothing for ourselves!
Did next section very
satisfactory, then decided it was time to stop.
L.K.s started "good moorings
2 locks down" game again, and pressurising us to go on, so went ahead on
bike to look. Complete nonsense, there was nowhere to moor, but there was a
large Dutch cruiser coming up - attended by 2 male L.K.s (we had 1 middle aged
female), leaving locks full for us.
We found it very difficult to work
out what they were all on about - but suspect that firstly the French men will
not share work, or work alongside women, and secondly that they can go home when
boat leaves flight. i.e. our mooring up in it means we are still their
responsibility until we do go.
Anyway, found reasonable mooring
just behind us, so insisted on reversing out of the lock, and making use of it.
Certain amount of tight lipped expression around, but we were not prepared to go
on!
Tied up 4 pin, wind had come up,
and rain threatened.
Commissariat problems - had to
make bread, and fridge empty!
Still puzzled at attitude of lock
staff - cannot see what the problem was.
September 7th
Tuesday
Lock 36 - Magny le Ville to les
Granges (nr Venarey les Laumes), Canal de Bourgogne.
Set off in cool, hazy sun with
intention of doing no more than our share of the work!
In fact, thinking back, that is
probably what foxed them yesterday! If the silly bugger (me) wants to drive
himself into the ground - let him. Our noses remain fully skinned. All I was
achieving, in fact, was making their work easier!
Let Mme Fatso do the entire flight
of 9 locks in her own time and in her own way. We took just 45 minutes longer
than me charging ahead yesterday and setting the locks up front. The gain was
definitely not worth the pain.
If we had been on our own, it
would have been a different kettle altogether, though.
Really quite comfortable run
through last 18 locks of what "Navicarte" calls "37 locks in
12.344 kms", and was, in fact, 56 locks since the tunnel 4 days ago.
Managed 9 locks before lunch break
(2 hours long!) at village Pouillnay, doing the locking through their way, and
last 9 to village les Granges in the afternoon, to moor up right behind a Narrow
Boat on the village jetty. Much more comfortable doing it their way - even if a
bit slower, and not nearly as energy consuming (mine)
Pouillenay shall go down in
history as the village where S. shot off as soon as we tied up to purchase lots
of basic food, and found a minute boulangerie right at the far end, whose total
annual turnover of tinned vegetables and tinned sausages she bought, and also
where I rode Floss's bike for the first time on a proper road with traffic.
"Tenez le droit" - this was after unjamming the chain from around back
axle.
Note here the importance of this
area - overlooking the canal is the town of Alise St Reine where the great
Gallic chief Vercingetorix threw his sword at Caesar's feet, and admitted defeat
- see Asterix, Obilix, Getafix, and the rest of them.
The country side we came through
to-day - vastly improved in our eyes due to absence of rain, is superb. Great
valleys and gentle hill slopes of mixed cattle grazing, a little cultivation,
and forest stretching for miles in every direction. Because the canal is
dropping, we are always on something of an eminence, so get these splendid
views.
The Narrow Boat we are moored
behind - "Buttermilk" - is the one that was lying at Joe Parfitt's
yard, and against which we moored up for our first night in France. Tim and Su
Drean, who own a cottage here, and having let it, live on the boat. 62 ft,
arrived in April.
Invited to lunch time braai
to-morrow - we'll see!
September 8th
Wednesday
les Granges to Perigny (Lock 72),
Canal de Bourgogne.
Off at 0900. Early start due to
panic - will we get to Roanne in time to lay up boat, in time to get to U.K., in
time to catch Esmerelda, in time for S. to get carved up, in time for her to
recover, in time for Christmas, in time to recover from Christmas, in time to
come out again in the next millennium, in time to do 4.5 million jobs on boat,
in time to finish them, in time to start next season.
Beautiful morning - sun coming up
through mist, totally calm.
Wide canal, poplars on both sides,
in the bottom of gentle valley sometimes 2 fields wide, sometimes a couple of
miles.
The mystery of the maize - hell of
a lot grown here - they were cutting it for silage to-day - complete with self
propelled harvester and rows of tractor-trailer units.
Beautiful run into Montbard, where
we had to do S.M. shop.
Found S.M. canalside on way in at
11.30.
Mooring up and sorting ourselves
out when L.K. arrives and says we got to go through next lock, there is another
S.M. there.
Faffed about, but
"pressure" to go on great, finished up outside closed S.M. at 12.15,
but tied up in quite nice P. de P.
Lunch on it's grass under trees
whilst awaiting S.M. to open again at 14.30. Whilst lunching asked by a French
speaking American if I could speak English!
Still cannot work out what L.K.s
are on about, although it is a great deal easier in most ways to along with
their requirements!
Presumably we'll have to make a
stand sometime, as we did yesterday, but it doesn't seem to last. If we knew
their agenda it would be easier.
They actually got a lot more laid
back once we were out of Montbard. Different foreman?
After shop, got away again at
1600. Hot and bothered, having carried or hauled on sack trolley all heavy
comestibles except beer.
Started to meet rows of a.c.c.
belonging to Connoisseur Cruisers at Venarey. We thought season over, but
apparently all their - admittedly not very big fleet - were out, although
Nichols on top of the hill were all in.
Pleasant run, bright, sunny, but a
bit hot. Tried to keep in the shade which resulted in meeting a hotel boat while
on the wrong side. Driven by an Englishman. Embarrassing. Frantic L.K. in little
white van waving to us from road. Thought he was being friendly. Actually saw
the boat on plenty of time, but did have to do scuttling act to get to right
side of canal. Astonished to see only 2 passengers.
Met up with, and ran alongside, a
rather noisy major road, so had to keep going until it left us, which it did at
about 1800.
Watched hot air balloon go up,
come down and go up again. "Belonged" to hotel boat. Presumably this
accounted for lack of passengers. The money these people must spend on their
holiday!
Next available likely mooring
meant we kept going to 1900, then stopped off at what appeared to be perfect
mooring, only to find that the pound was surging, so every so often we would
drop on the bottom. There was an irrigation unit in the next field with diesel
pump motor and ratchet, an intermittent railway line, and buzz-bike like sound
in background!
Later:-
We think the buzz-bike sound was a
forage harvester, anyway it stopped at dusk.
We usually go in at dusk, because
at this season, even on hot days, it is too cool to stay out much after 19.30.
Once in boat, heard nothing,
deafness aided by Cote de Rhone.
Sleep appreciably disturbed by
onset of effects of farting juice taken mid-afternoon - poopoopoo,- extinguish
all naked flames - mais pas moi.
September 9th
Thursday
Perigny (Lock 72) to Ancy-le-Franc,
Canal de Bourgogne.
Again, clear bright morning, canal
very wide now, and so under-utilised (unused) we tie up with only 2 ropes, and
push boat off loosely, so we are reasonably level.
In fact there is the odd boat
about - we passed another hotel boat almost as soon as we set off, and another
tied up in a pretty spot with English ladies sketching.
Into Ravieres about 11.30. For the
past 5 kms been passing near or under hills and cliffs with lots of quarrying
and stone cutting at numerous different sites - very deep square cuts, very
white stone.
Ravieres appears to be centre of
ops, with large stone working plant, and peniche quay. Stacks of cut stone,
beautifully accurate surfaces. Some blocks had been sliced as thin as ¾ inch,
and banded back to-gether in original order with spacers inserted, just like
logs in a saw mill weathering.
Hot - but found neat unoccupied
village type mooring. Stopped and went up for bread - become very French in our
daily requirement for fresh bread. Nice little town, very quiet, although all
shops - incl small S.M. are present.
Sat under tree shade near boat
doing not a lot - locks shut at 12.00.
Off again about 1415. Bloody hot.
Too hot, so stopped for tea and
cool off of selves and boat just after Lock 79 at 1615.
On again at 1645 to very nice
offside mooring just before Rapille 81, at 17.30. Very long run.
Canal much deeper here, but even
so a hotel peniche looming on the horizon persuaded us that 4 pins were
necessary.
S. did her best to leave boat
permanently, by using gangplank that was yet to be secured at it's boat end.
Ended up in undignified heap with c. of g. just on back deck, like an inebriated
beetle upside-down between a paving stone and a puddle unable to right itself
without swimming.
Moored her to a stern bollard
whilst suitable arrangements made for recovery (recovery could only be made from
boat, and recovery crew was stuck on shore side with no means of boarding).
There was some urgency as hotel peniche was approaching, and inappropriate for
"Albert" crew to be an arses-up exhibition.
Recovery duly completed with 1
foot only in water and some bruising - and considerably dignity reduction!
Shaken , battered but unbowed - especially after strong brandy.
Fortunately all recovered by the
time the Hotel Peniche passed.
Very poe faced passengers - all of
an age and appearance to be a company convention. Beautifully laid glass and
napery on tables, etc, etc. Skipper strong American accent but probably
Skanderhoovian - certainly didn't take job too seriously, ran his boat aground
whilst "looking at your boat"! amidst much hilarity.
Countryside much more agribusiness
- lots of plough up to forest edge up hills. Several pathetic ruins of factories
on canal side - mostly allied to stone carving of stone from adjacent hills, all
with peniche loading docks.
September 10th
Friday
Ancy-le-Franc to Lock 94 Arcot
Short of Tonnerre, Canal de Bourgogne.
Even brighter, but still cool
early morning.
Set off full of enthusiasm to
cover lots of ground as 1st 4 locks automatic.
1st one, new type to us - big box
on lockside with lots of numbered buttons and little lights on a board.
Got bottom gates closed, but the
kept opening again, then discovered main switch liked disconnecting, and
starting cycle over again.
Took deep breath, and 1 hour later
defeated it.
Subsequent ones easy,. but very
slow.
Charming Dutchman had lock cottage
at 2nd one. You can't buy them, only rent them. You start by getting a shabby
one at low rental, but as you improve it, up goes your rent! This explains the
shabby state of the L.K. cottages back up the flight - they were terrible, but
no-one is going to pay to make improvements, and then a higher rent.
He said French men are only
interested in what goes on outside the home, and inside the pub - hence they are
not good at nice homes. Further, the French only ever do everything, or nothing.
And never, never get involved in Govt Administration - it is a nightmare.
Soldiered steadily on as it got
hotter and hotter.
Total traffic 2 hire boats and one
hotel peniche, who was made to wait while L.K. put us through. This is against
custom - any sort of working boat has absolute right of way - they probably
tipped him badly!
Brolley up first thing - no wind -
but first had to carry out complicated repair on bent rib with 9" of copper
water pipe and jubilee clips, and, of course, some baling wire.
Don't know how we would have
survived day without - it got scorchingly hot.
Lunch in nice shady spot - boat
and us covered - at Lezinnes between railway bridge and lock. Amazed to see
train, quite ½mile long, of special trucks carrying 2 layers cars. Many other
freight trains, both last night, and to-day.
Subsequently saw several more car
trains.
Tried to find tea stop place at
1600 - quite hottest time - but too shallow and no shade, so had to soldier on.
Started trying to stop for night
just after Tanlay. All the little towns and villages we went through had little
harbours, but the are "paved" with tar or gravel, and although some
have the odd tree for humans, the boats just sizzle in the sun, and the whole
impression is of unaleviated sunblasting heat.
L.K. started usual business when
we aid we might stop of shovelling us through - he was right! There was no-where
in the pound we chose, and the water was a foot down and in the next one we
found quiet, bollards, reasonably deep water, but no view! After yesterday's
fiasco did 4 pin tie up with ladders pegged to bank by springs.
Lovely cool breeze, shade, drinks,
cheeze, biscuits, decided to do Income Tax to-morrow.
September 11th
Saturday
Short of Tonnerre to PK 29,
Villiers, Canal de Bourgogne.
Hotter and hotter, but cool
nights, albeit plenty bugs about.
Straight into Tonnerre - obviously
we were the first through the lock to-day, nobody about until after I had closed
bottom gates.
Then woman and youth turned up, as
did vociferous man who gave them loud rockets for not being present.
Result was fed-up-ness among them,
so we that got "run-around" when asking for directions to baker, and
S. ended up in an industrial estate about 3 kms away.
Filled with water and pulled out -
with bread.
Most of boats - 1 yacht (RNSA),
1small barge, + something else - in quite nice basin seemed to be English, but
no contact made.
Cleaned a bit of the boat whilst
waiting - "Albert" is getting a little travel stained!
Canal here very wide - 30 - 40
metres - lined on both sides either with formal lines of poplars, or with 15 -
30 yard wide line of thick scrub and forest trees.
Through a couple of locks, hit
mid-day stop time, and pulled in for lunch break. Set off again 1430.
Did income tax forms - discovered that complete
set of supporting documents was not complete.
Too bloody hot, and about 1530
rammed the bank under some trees to wedge the boat in the shallows (couldn't
even be bothered to find decent moorings) tied centreline only, and flaked out
in chairs until 1730!
Moved on, through lock 101 and
moored for night. Significance here was this was the only spot away from main
road and railway line, both of which follow pretty closely line of canal along
the wide valley floor
Very quiet spot - a bit shallow so
had to do gangplank tie up, and share area - 100 yards away - with an a.c.c.,
but pleasant short grass, in shade, and masses of "autumn crocuses"
about.
Countryside, while essentially
rural - agribusiness, on the whole with enormous fields, but some smallholding
and strip farming - is getting more "settled" with many more of the
super little higgledy-pigledy villages the French go in for (it appears that
even complete steadings - 2 or more - are at times located in villages). There
are, of course, also towns to negotiate!