2000

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May  16      Tuesday
In Marseilles les Aubigny.
Moored up outside dock, within environs of yard, so able to supervise all that went on.
Watched work going on in dock - realised morale a bit higher amongst workers as they re-welded underside of boat in dock.
Last night we could clearly see water dribbling out of underside onto bed of dock!
Rubbed down gunwales on both sides of Albert, and painted black undercoat on to one side.
Drilled a mass of 10 mm holes in a small grid into side of engine compartment, to try and let more air in. Noticeable draft through, when engine running, so might improve things. Started another pattern near floor of step for same purpose.
Went off for quick 30 min run in evening back up canal to empty loo!
 
May 17                                         Wednesday
As above
 
May 18                                          Thursday
As Above.
Heard that banks are going on strike and there is no money in holes-in-walls.
Panic stations.
Went into Nevers on country bus - 45 mins for 10 kms.
Got money - main object of trip including 3 hours in Nevers - within 10 minutes of arrival.
Wandered around, missed bikes as seemed to "trudge" everywhere.
Got some essential maps and a child’s reading book for S. to practice her French on.
Came back on evening bus.
Return ticket I had bought was, in fact a single, so looked silly when had to buy another single. Suspect there is no such thing as return.
This bus had lots of quite old school children coming home from schools in Nevers to the country districts. (The bus route was a complete round the houses circuit). We calculated that they must have left home on the 0700 bus to Nevers (we went on the only other one, at mid-day)
This means they were away from home for 10.5 hours.
It was significant that there was virtually no sound - talking, laughing, joshing, - both genders were present in aprox equal numbers - of any sort, at all. A lot of them slept!
Weather cool and overcast, but even so it seemed a thoroughly exhausting day - the bus took 90 minutes on the return trip.
 
May 19                                               Friday
Still in Marseilles les Aubigny - waiting patiently!
 
May 20                                           Saturday
Still in Marseilles les Aubigny - and no not bored, but would like to get on.
Returned thermostat to engine cooling system - if anything she overheated quicker with it out, if that is possible.
The last 3 - 4 days have certainly been different, in that we seem to have filled them, although tied up to a singularly uninspiring piece of France.
The "Port" is lovely, about half as big as Roanne in area, but only used down one side - the other is the throughway for travelling boats, with 2 locks at the top end.
The Port is host to a number of large or very large peniche/ Dutch Barges in the public section, and, of course, to the fabrication and dry dock business down this end. It is also, down this end, host to a number of full sized peniches, all breasted up, in all stages from total inhabited smartness to being used as a store-room for junk. However, there does not appear to be anyone on them!
Regrettably, the Port, although well laid out and to some extent occupied by the large permanent moorers, has a distinctly unwelcoming air about it, with signs saying what you may and may not do, all the tap handles removed, and instructions on how to get a handle - so long as it is during working hours, and not w/e or holidays - from the local shop.
This, of course, is anathema to boaters, who are quite prepared to pay for the services they use, but do not expect to have to go on bended knee to the local shop owner to be supplied or not at his convenience - and have to pay deposits on tap handles!
Anyway, the result is a very nice harbour - but totally empty of passing trade.
In our case, we wanted water to-day, so trotted off along to Cours les Barnes - 6 kms away, where we moored up last w/e. We probably actually spent more in diesel on getting the water (even though it - the water - is actually free, there) but we got it in our own way, in our own time, and without being beholden to a shopkeeper!
On the way back stopped off at "the Watsons". Known in the boating world, and mentioned in the books.
An English couple, he is a marine engineer, they have cleaned up about 50 metres of canal side, and for about 12 years have run b & b, and winter "keep an eye on your boat" business. Their moorings - extremely nice grassy ones - are free, but I think you pay minimally for water (by the fill) and electricity.
Discussed overheating, and he gave me a lot of ideas - none of which included the dreaded cylinder head gasket - particularly as to air locks in cooling system.
They do boaters washing - we left a great mass of sheets and towels, and run a book swap, and will bath you - correction - let you use their bathroom.
The property is lovely - big garden, rambling ranch style house - but they are homesick for England, and to return to sailing, and it is in the process of being sold/bought. Subsequently learned the price - £90,000 - which is apparently tops in France. Would value the same property in same situation in England at £150,000 to £200,000.
 
May 21                                             Sunday
Spent early part of morning fiddling with engine - took radiator cap off and ran her to temperature, in the hope of moving out bubbles that may or may not be causing an air lock that may or may not be blocking free flow of cooling water.
Managed to slosh cooling water all over the place, but some bubbles did come out.
Ran down to "the Watsons" to collect washing, on cold blustery sunless day.
Boat apparently running much cooler - but we were deliberately running very slow.
From Watsons on to Cours les Barres for lunch, then back, running boat faster.
Enormous improvement, but feel that the job is not yet finished - she still climbed - very slowly this time - to just on 80 degrees. (She was getting to 83+ with 20 minutes of starting before. but should run at 74 - 78.
Sun was out when we got back, so bike ride to N. end of village to "inspect" another dry dock marked in book.
Sort of Marie Celeste type place. Covered dry dock, water and electricity points, two diesel pumps, miles of straight well bollarded moorings, admin buildings with signs, loos, all neat and tidy and clean, and completely deserted. (Subsequently told by L.K. that it used to be a Crown Blue Line hire base, but they had closed it and moved elsewhere).
Would have thought it would make ideal Hire Base, except not on passenger railway. (Subsequently discovered that Crown Blue Line used to have a base here, but had moved on elsewhere).
Opposite were 2 more of those extraordinary military amphibious vehicle we saw farther back set up for pile driving - like long large DUKWS, 3 sets of wheels below, several very large plastic flotation tanks bolted along sides, standard driving cab, but propeller extending below cab in front, with controls of it and rudder facing backwards, from position on top of cab roof.
Came back to boat and had drinks in sun - but really too cool, so came in.
 
May 22                                                 Monday
Into dock first thing - general cheerfulness and willingness to help on part of foreman, and lad helping him. Raimondo not to be seen.
Super high pressure water blaster - nearly tipped me back if not held properly.
Cleaned rust pustules and dirt off.
Painted on anti rust treatment. This is a water based varnish sort of creamy stuff that is supposed to combine with the rust and "do good things".
Long hot day - both buggered - quite quaint living in boat totally stationary.