2000

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July 24 Monday
Barry-au Bac to just short of Chateau Porcien. Canal des Ardennes.
Almighty thunderstorm of the 2" of rain variety - hit us at 0100.
We were tucked up snug with everything put away, so largely unaffected, except noise and lightening.
Set off in damp mist, visibility only about 400 metres.
Arrived at first lock to find large Belgian boat waiting - they had waited half an hour as lock was set against them, and therefore "boat coming down".
Set off with frying pan on foot - diagnoses right, there was no boat - lock just not working.
L.K. arrived at same time, and fixed it.
They reckoned we were too long to-gether to share - so we stood back, and thanked our lucky stars we weren’t sharing as they bounced from side to side of the lock entrance in a haze of engine smoke.
Then cream on the cake, the travelling boulangerie arrived in a little van at the lock cottage, and amid peeps from respective horns, bread crisis was solved.
Pleasant peaceful run, except most of the automatic locks don’t work.
There is almost no traffic on this canal, although big, wide, and in good order. All day, we saw 2 private boats going down, 1 peniche and 2 private boats and ourselves going up.
Stopped off at Asfeld to ring solicitors from steam age phone-in-a-box.
Almost another crisis - number didn’t exist. However, when English dialing code (0044_ used and not French (0033) it worked a treat.
Population density too low for mobile coverage her-abouts.
Visited Asfeld Church, whilst there - truly remarkable - built in 1683 like a viola. Makes for a most impressive, albeit unusual, round church with an extension. Roof sheathed in cut slates, like fish scales.
Town pleasant, flat, quiet, and new (result of wars?)
Moored up for night just above first lock that worked without intervention. L.K. - a slightly surly gentleman - had twins. Matter discussed (it so happened we both knew the French for twins - jumeau or jumeaux, I think) and an extremely jovial and friendly conversation ensued!
Quiet mooring, but couldn’t sit long outside - too cool.
 
July 25 Tuesday
Chateau Porcien to Rethel. Canal des Ardennes.
Rain before breakfast, but by the time we set off - 10.00 to 10.30, it had
stopped, although remaining cloudy and grey.
Countryside still flat and rolling grain farms - huge - with huge silos by the canal every few miles.
Difficult to see the countryside once again, because of the overgrown canal sides.
Gently through to Rethel, the last proper town before we disappear into the "vastnesses" of the Ardennes.
Found reasonable P. de P., stopped off, and set off on search for dentist.
The drill (what a pun) on these occasions is to ask either the Tourist Information Bureau, or any chemist, or both.
Visited 3 listed by T.I.B., 1 closed for annual holiday, one an orthodontist, and the third we couldn’t find - all this on bikes in reasonably heavy town traffic!
However, first recommendation from chemist struck pay-dirt.
He was open, his reception was pleasant, genial and good looking.
Did I want to see M. le Medecin to-day or to-morrow!
To-day.!
After behind the scenes conversation - of course he would see me after the next patient if I would wait.
Checked my handwritten crib of French words likely to be useful when discussing tooth-ache with members of the dentistry profession, and found the first one, the translation of "gum", illegible, and couldn’t remember it.
Felt this piece of linguistic skill to be vital - so asked receptionist what it was that was written on grubby piece of paper.
Receptionist - whilst not an English speaker, and not familiar with the English way (or my way) of writing French - recognised the difficulty and the word immediately, amidst much hilarity from herself, audience of other patients, audience of those waiting to be seen, dentist himself etc, etc. Followed discussion on language difficulties, and that we enjoyed overcoming them when our victims were so "gentil".
45 minutes later, after totally civilised session, including advanced philosophical discussion anent the usefulness of back teeth that were loose, that hurt, and that had failed properly to respond to treatment from 3 other dentists, left minus offending tooth, and Fr fr 137.00. Yes, £13.70 was the bill.
On a somewhat similar occasion in Bath when my bridge was damaged, and I walked into the nearest dentist I was charged £60.00 "to be seen by the practice" before anyone would even talk to me, and then another £50.00 for 10 minutes work. The only visible expressions on that occasion were sour ones, even when taking my money.
It is noticeable - in passing - after wandering around Rethel looking for a dentist - that the towns and villages around here have wide streets, and are neat and tidy - relic of being flattened in 2 world wars Decided to stay overnight in Rethel in view of mild physical discomfort from efforts of tooth drawer, and carry out minor personal administration.
Inevitable visit to S.M.
Washing and cleaning on boat, listening to 2 French women talking at each other and their dogs for 3 hours solid.
 
July 26 Wednesday
Rethel to Rilly sur Aisne, on the Canal des Ardennes.
Woke up to pitter patter of rain.
Stayed put - not much point in going on in rain unless a schedule has to be kept.
On reduction of rain - mid morning - broke out bikes, up to P.O. to pay tel bill, and get fresh bread.
Set off straight after in mild drizzle.
Countryside - where visible through dense canalside bush - very peaceful, under occupied and bucolic. Large fields becoming progressively smaller.
All locks worked properly, but slightly overexcited when empty peniche (they look like lurking alligators when fully loaded, not much taller than us, but when empty, are the size of houses - way above us) wanted to overtake.
Did cowering in the reeds act, went aground, but were nicely pulled off by peniche’s wash, and got a quick lift in his wake.
Arrived in Attigne at tea time. This is the last civilisation before the big flight - 27 locks up - over the watershed to the Meuse Valley.
There were proper moorings there, and we fitted nicely in, but lots of boats and we were looking out of the windows at a blank wall.
Bought bread, and moved on to Rilly, and moored to the bank. At least in the open, and on our own.
G. & T. on the bank in a manner that is rapidly becoming traditional.
 
July 27                                         Thursday
Rilly sur Aisne to PK 23 near village Tannay. Canal des Ardennes.
Early start in spite of night rain, and thin drizzle.
Task to-day to complete flight of 27 locks over about 7 kms, average raise 2.90 metres - time suggested by books 7 hours
Method on this flight unique - locks are standard automatic and in a standard timed chain, but instead of having a "seeing eye" at entrance and exit, these ones have a curved swinging bar sticking out from the stonework on the corners of the lock on 1 side only.
Thus on entry to a lock, the bar has to be moved back, or swiveled about 60 degrees and held open for about 8 secs, to permit operation of the lock.
This is designed so that peniches do it automatically with their hulls.
We started with a boat hook, but reckoned whilst dead easy from our height, uncool, so with a bit of accurate driving did the same.
Fun watching cruisers, who, because of the height of their decks above the water, and hull shape, can’t push with their hulls, and have a difficult poke with their boat hook, then don’t have the necessary leverage to hold the thing open. This was a great leveler of the bigger, richer more pompous cruisers.
If you don’t do the one on the way in, the lock won’t work - you close the gates and raise the level with a standard tirette - and if you try to get away with not doing the one on the way out, the next lock won’t work, and the whole chain breaks down.
Got going really nicely, with good drill and co-operation of team - no lock sharing, fortunately - when father and mother of all heavy rain storms hit, and everything fell apart - cruiser failed to push bar after him, brolly tried to blow away, camera was getting wet, both struggling to find and don foul weather gear, pull tarpaulin half over cockpit, keep boat straight, whole system collapsed.
No sweat - V. pleasant L.K.s on velocettes charged up and down correcting cock-ups very quickly, and being sympathetic.
A bit of fun with a very masculine walker, who, of course was covering the ground far faster than us.
First time he saw us it so happened that we were at the stage of the cycle when S drives & I go through boat to front to do tirette.
On way back, as nothing then happens for a bit as gates shut, and water starts filling, decided to do washing up. (Washing up is exactly opposite side hatch, which is always open - most of France have seen our kitchen and sink)
As we rose in lock, fellow saw wifey driving boat, downtrodden hubby doing dishes. Street cred zero. So sorry for me, gave me a bag of plums - windfalls. S gave him 10 frs, and a cold beer, thus confirming who was boss on this boat.
Finished flight in 4 hours - but realistically have to allow all day, for equipment and human failures - this looked like the first ever automatic system installed.
The country side here is extremely pleasant. A bit like a warm Borders.
Down the bottom the endless trees and canalside bush were beginning to thin out, but still cereals and sugar beet.
Quite suddenly we were up into remote country, paddocks, meadows, rough hill grazing and moos of the black and white variety, and small fields of cereals, and fences.
Into le Chesne - first "civilisation" after the flight, - at about 15.00, tied up thankfully for lunch. One can on no account stop in a chain (hence most chains are in sets of 4 to 8 locks, with gaps between) as it completely foxes all the timings, and results in rows of boats - if there are any - sitting around for hours on end with jammed lock electrics.
Found 3 Dutch boats on moorings already - they must have come up yesterday - so took the remaining berth, after one of them "taught" us how to moor, and bemoaned our lack of bow thruster. (A crossways propeller in the hull below the bows that turns your front end across the direction of travel - expensive, and very susceptible to blocking with rubbish)
Had our lunch, wandered round town which was a bit like Moffat in lay-out and size and dependency on tourist buses,, and pushed on again to rather pleasant country mooring with good view.
Passed yet more silos - one with pile of grain outside that had obviously been rained on - locally it appears that the harvest is taken straight to the silos from the combines in the field in everything from enormous road lorries to ordinary tractors and trailers.
Work has come to a halt over the last few days with a return of the rain, but many of the piles are still outside.
In passing, we have passed quite a few of these silo complexes in the last week, all very busy at this time of year. Naturally, all the ones we have passed have jetties and loading equipment for direct bulk loading of peniches - many have peniches loading or unloading or just waiting around outside empty. Some silo complexes fly the E.U flag, and one flew the E.U and German flag. Presumably this is the "European grain mountain."
Most of them receive the grain in a pile on the concrete outside, load it into a drier, and then presumably load it into the silos. (Usually 6 or 8 silos in each complex).
Careful tie up, as were followed by 2 peniches - loaded.
G & T on bank in sudden warm spell.
A thoroughly good day.
Enjoyed, after dark, good view across the fields of the Church in the little village - huge, the church, that is - lit up by flood lights - most effective on the fine evening, but it rained later.
July 28 Friday
Near Tannay to Pont-au-Bar. Canal des Ardennes.
Up undisturbed by traffic - either over the old rusty bridge we were near - probably 5 cars, or up the canal - 2 or 3 peniches, and 2 or 3 private boats.
Decided to do a bread buying run on bikes. Got away quickly without committee meeting, and once again just caught the visiting bread van.
Big gossip session of 2 old ducks and bread lady - also an aged quacker - into which joined. The subject was the Brompton, so gave a demonstration - amidst mirth and admiration - of folding capacity, and offered to put it into the back of the bread van.
Fortunately offer refused - it could have been a mistake. Duly bought bread.
Countryside - continuing from yesterday - very pleasant indeed - wide flat valley, small fields, lots of pasture, paddocks vaguely fenced, rough grazing, meilies, soaking wet small grain awaiting harvest. They’ll probably lose a lot of it if they can’t get it off in the next day or so, but showers and rain still continuing.
Even so, lovely run, and no bankside bush to hide it.
Locks are automatic zappers since the top of the flight, but had trouble with one - personally think aforementioned Dutch sergeant major’s daughter pulled the red emergency rod and froze it. On another 2 close to-gether there was a L.K. who insisted on holding everybody else up for us, and squashing us into a space that was only just borderline sufficient. Went down both waggling the rudder continuously in case we sat on the sill or silt at the back.
Great difficulty in finding somewhere for lunch - everywhere was nice, but canal sides were very shallow, and there was just enough traffic to demand proper moor up.
Arrived at Pont-au-Bar - the end of the Canal des Ardennes (which is not in the Ardennes) - and the Tee junction where we are due to enter the river Meuse - known here as Canal de l’Est (Branch Nord).
Stopped at outside end of messy line of messy boats, with a hire base and lock just beyond. Moored up to go and have a look and generally suss out the situation of going down a large river after a lot of rain.
As we moored up, another narrow boat hove into sight from in front - going opposite way to us - moored up, and we all introduced ourselves. Levant, 46 feet, Raymond and Pat, from Hitchin and the Middle Levels (fens), many years experience of Narrow Boating.
Long evening of gossip and stories - we felt they weren’t really enjoying themselves as much as they should, as they had started at Calais, very much amongst the big commercial traffic and large canals and enormous locks, so suffering - in their first 3 months - everything that the system can throw at them before they have got acclimatized, and, of course, have had the same filthy weather as the rest of us. They had left the river, the flood was too much for them, and were proposing to leave their boat at Scilly - just above Reims - and go home for a month’s "holiday".
July 29 Saturday
At Pont au Bar, Junction of Canal des Ardennes and River Meuse/Canal de l’Est (Branch Nord).
As we didn’t get to bed till 23.30 last night, were in no hurry to get up.
Heard Levant go off about 0900, heading for a larder re-stocking session at le Chesne - the river floods had wrecked their plans.
Got on bikes, and went down to have gossip with L.K. - beautifully kept lock and gardens - heard that the river was certainly up - perhaps equivalent of 18" to 2ft.
Went down the end of the canal to lastermost lock to have a look.
Bit cold looking Great Grey Green etc etc, difficult to judge speed of flow, but certainly quite fast.
However, we have really do have to go down river to Fumay - which is quite near the border with Belgium - to pick up Poste Restante post.
Moved boat to below lock onto much better mooring - the one above the lock on the canal had soft holding ground so pegs pulled out and ropes had to go right across the towing path to trees, it was shallow at the edge, and terribly fidgety with surges and passing traffic having to pass us too close.
Decided no departure to-day, 3 reasons; firstly, we would like to think about river level and current, secondly we will arrive at large noisy manufacturing towns on a Saturday, and thirdly it came on to rain anyway - we would note the river level on the meter board at the tail of the lock, and see what it does. Found little road up to village about 2 kms from boat, cycled up and duly found boulangerie.
Snoozed in afternoon, tried to watch 2 hire boats going out onto river, but they didn’t actually go - they were only getting tuition. There is traffic, however, all peniches coming in empty. Eventually 1 hire boat did go out, but it was a very large boat, and clearly had an experienced crew. It was raining, so we let them get on with it.
 
July 30 Sunday
Pont au Bar to Joigny-sur-Meuse. Canal de l’Est (Branch Nord - Actually the River Meuse).
Apparently officialdom - many years ago wanted this river to be a canal, so called it so. It is, in fact, a dirty great river - just as big as the Marne.
Near disaster when doing breakfast - forgot the Sunday ceremonial boiled eggs. Late entry corrected error.
After breakfast followed loaded peniche to outlet to river, and watched him turn against current.
Interesting, but not totally daunting for us.
Cut across to village, bought bread, and set off about 1200 down river.
Tried going up first - no bother, so turned and set off down.
Moved fast over ground.
Superb run in deep forested valleys, most impressive.
OK thru’ Charleville-Mezieres where L.K. played childish game of "keep the boats waiting" just for the hell of it.
Didn’t realise 2 large tributaries joins Meuse in a backwater behind the town.
When we emerged from town down river, we were obviously on top of a flood - dirty water, fast flowing, debris, so careered down stream, covering the ground faster than most narrow boats would ever hope to go.
Started getting nervous, so aborted trip about 5kms short of destination to stop and think, at a low grassed river bank ex-mooring with a bollard and trees suitable for safe mooring. We reckon a mooring on pins only not safe unless pins are in very hard ground, which they are normally not on canal banks, which naturally are mostly "made ground", i.e.  spoil from the canal
Coming in a bit of an adventure - had to turn boat to approach mooring heading upstream - naturally!
Boat started coming round, then took off going sideways. Normally, at this stage we gently ram the bank, which holds front of boat whilst back end comes round into line, and we tie up, dusting our hands off as though we do it every day, and know exactly what we are on.
On this occasion didn’t dare ram bank - going fast enough sideways to roll boat, so had to do a bit of black exhaust smoke maneuvering, before sliding into place.
Tied up extra carefully, sat down and thought it through.
We seem to have caught up with the flood that was with us yesterday when we looked out from the canal, but which, up there was obviously dropping and lessening over night. Also a lot extra flow appears to have joined us on route, so we are probably on, or near, the crest of the same flood, but further on, later, and enlarged. To-morrow we will complete last 5 kms, if practicable. If not, although our actual mooring is on the outside of a bend, and hence in fastest part of flow, we are, in fact, safely and firmly tied up, so physically can see out next 2 or 3 days - maybe! Anyway, there is a lock, with it’s attendant quiet water cutting just around corner, about 4 kms, so  if necessary we can nip in and cower there.
Came onto rain - silly wetting rain followed by drizzle.
Late night bonus - the local village was having it's Bastille Day celebration, including fireworks. The celebrations had been postponed due to rain, and it was still almost raining - low wet mist.
Firework display fired off into mist, and although the star-bursts and whatever were invisible because of the clouds, they achieved a remarkable, weird and spooky effect, lighting up the inside of the clouds in colours, and the bangs reverberating around the surrounding hills.
Stood on bridge and enjoyed - that is the second free display we’ve had this year.