BACK TO CALENDAR 2000

August 7                  Monday

la Cassine to Attigny (Canal des Ardennes).

Got organised last night, so away at reasonable hour - like 0930.

Regrettably, clever-clever efforts to reduce weed hatch baffle empty volume didn’t seem to make much difference - propeller still a bit noisy! and after all that work, too.

Stopped off on P. de P. at le Chesne to fill water, bought the odd thing, and pushed on. Impression of upward journey that this is not such a nice place backed up this time - broken glass and litter all round the entry steps to the P. de P., which is under a road bridge.

On to the 26 lock flight.

Again relieved to find no necessity to share. We love our fellow boaters (quite), but lock sharing seems to take for ever, and have the feeling that 2 separate descents do not, in fact, take any longer than 2 boats descending sharing.

Took 4 hours again - exactly the same as the "mounting". Again, several lock failures in the first half held us back, even though we now have the "push the bar with boat act" thoroughly sussed.

We are now back from the fine open rural country to forests right to the edge of the canal.

Into Attigny about 1700, more than ready to moor up.

Tied up along a bit from P. de P. - full of 10 metre boats using 20 metres of space.

Although right in middle of town, this is the place we compared with Moffat on the way up, and the "feeling" is reasonably comfortable.

Found "Shopi" S.M. just behind mooring (30 metres) - ideal for diesel, but like them all, closed on Mondays.

Met Yorkshire Maid on the way down on their way back to Holland. All they had to say was don’t moor in Rethel - the tooth extraction town. We had heard from couple of Dutch boats that the quite pleasant P. de P. that we stayed in has been taken over by a band of thoroughly unpleasant, rather nasty, aggressive "gypsies". This information is, of course, rumour, but is strong enough for us to avoid staying there on the way back, which was, originally, our intention. However, we are fascinated as to whether the extremely strong minded Jim, of Yorkshire Maid, had a go at them, or had a go taken at him - I wouldn’t bet on the winner.

 

August 8                                         Tuesday

Attigny to about 500 metres out of Attigny (Canal des Ardennes).

(Met Penny and Richard Dives of Elizabeth J).

All afire to do diesel. Emptied 2 jerricans into tank - knocked funnel into canal and put half canal into tank - last night.

Straight to "Shopi" to fill them up this morning, using chariot, but as 200 metres at most, pushed on foot.

Emptied 2 more pairs of jerricans in, re-filled cans and stored.

We are now full of diesel!

S went shopping for prescription - not available till 1500, so decided to wait(!)

Big food and drink shop.

Have taken to drinking gin and tonic in evening - amongst many choices of gin, have found "Old Lady’s" best London Gin the most appropriate. Known to us as "femme agé". Schweppes tonic still only one drinkable.

Moved boat along under trees by seats - meant to be proper moorings, not where we were - in place of Dutchmen who left at 0630.

Lots of room, now. But as day wore on, filled up again, until feeling totally cramped.

Penny Dives came to gossip, and in no time the chemist was open again - another day just slipped away with nothing tangible achieved - except gentle fun and enjoyment.

Invited to a drink on Elizabeth J , but about 16.30 started feeling claustrophobic - there was a boat right up our backside with the Dutch owners sharing their ice creams with our stern button, and a boat right under our bows with the Belgium occupants pro-creating under the close supervision of our bow button. (Dropped bow hatch cover (steel upon steel) by mistake - VERY loud clang - that sorted them)

We left.

Tied up on a nice site, good view over river alongside canal, shortish grass, but limited depth, so had to do full scale ladder moor-up. No odd people about - in fact no-body at all!

 

 

August 9                                 Wednesday

Just outside Attigny to Chateau Porcien. (Canal des Ardennes)

Woke to thick - couldn’t see one end of the boat from the other - mist. Quite spooky.

No question of trying to navigate in it, so sat around till 0930, and improved shining hour by removing the piece of wood bolted to the bottom of the weed hatch baffle to reduce propeller thrash and cavitation noises.

As it had done neither, and the weed hatch was leaking water straight into the engine compartment (once saw a boat on the Severn that sank because his weed hatch was loose) felt it was tactful to think again.

Back to the drawing board.

10.00 a Dutchman went screaming past.

Waited another 10 mins, when it really had become safe to go and went.

Found péniche in 1st lock, so duly waited.

Whilst waiting on bank, as péniche came out of lock, last night’s procreating Belgians arrived at high speed, shot round us, under bows of moving péniche in suicidal manner and skittered - sideways - into lock, and tied themselves up half way along. This was the most reckless piece of boat handling we’ve seen yet - pshahwr and fhaarrh!

We followed in - somewhat bemused - to find that not only had they not left us enough room to get in - we require about 18 metres of the total 40 - but that they - or rather the he of the partnership - waved us back when we got too close to his boat. Not interested in fact that this left back end outside the lock.

Continued forward, whereupon the he reached for our bows with his hands to fend us back (he was standing on the lock-side).

Gave Albert a quick burst of throttle with left hand hard down, so that bows went out from the lockside and "he" was left with nothing to push or lean on, whilst dangling over the water. Regretfully, with a great deal of hand, bum, and leg waving, he recovered - shame. Albertieres were audible in their cackles.

Noticeable that at next lock he took himself right to the front, and then they stopped at Rethel before any more locks. Perhaps they were panting for a repeat of yesterday afternoon’s antics.

Passed Rethel, nice mooring in nice town where tooth removal operation took place on way up. Had heard rumours about aggressive gypsies taking over moorings.

Saw that half of moorings area occupied by 3 large caravans, lots of washing, rubbish, small children, etc.

Other half just messy and vandalised. Hear that life is made uncomfortable for moorers - harassment and theft, etc.

Continued without stopping - very sad, surprised authority hasn’t taken positive action.

Very pleasant day’s run - must emphasise that this is the stretch described on our way up as dark, gloomy, and overshadowed with dripping trees.

In fact, with the sun out, and no wet clothes about, and the cock-pit tarpaulin right back, this is a very beautiful and picturesque rural landscape, and a real pleasure to drive through.

Moored up just below Chateau-Porcien - Pig Castle???.

After mooring, and usual snooze in chairs on bank, went bicycle ride to village. 2 - 3 kms?

Very pleasant almost totally silent village/town, with some 14th/15th Century buildings and 17thC Church. No fuss - just small notice outside, but regrettably little attempt at maintenance. Quite something looking at a fortified house, and trying to realise that those bricks were laid 500 years ago.

August 10                                         Thursday

Chateau Porcien to Pignicourt. (Canal des Ardennes to Canal lateral a l’Aisne)

Another delightful day through very pleasant country - found the stretch that "coloured" our opinion of the whole canal as overgrown and dripping trees.

Even it looked good in sunlight!

At 11.30 realised we had no lunch and were 45 minutes away from shops.

Put foot, so Albert really did become a Greyhound of the Ocean.

Arrived at jetty at 2 mins to 12.00, to take running leap with bike - virtually unfolding it in mid-air.

Made small S.M. and duly bought requisite baguettes.

Had forgotten rucksack. Stuffed then down trousers, but half way back damn things broke in half, and had to cycle up hill holding half baguettes under chin, whilst other halves were being extremely personal elsewhere.

Moved on, and had splendid lunch at good spot further down.

Arrived at official end of canal des Ardennes, and entered canal lateral de l’Aisne. (lateral only means that it is a canal running alongside a river of that name, ensuring navigation is not interrupted by floods.

Only practical visible difference was that the first lock - a radar one - didn’t work.

Found nice - or rather several kms - of nice mooring, with new cut grass, etc.

Also found endless fishermen - perfectly friendly and pleasant, but in possession.

Reckon France is on holiday - coming w/e is major summer holiday w/e, and most businesses have closed for 1 or 2 weeks.

Found good spot at end - well beyond end - of fishermen, half shade, half sun, eventually, just after Pignicourt.

Tied up, and did some black paint patching - very boring, and more snoozing.

 

 

August 11                                                             Friday

Pignicourt to Bourg-le-Commen. (Canal lateral a l’Aisne)

Stopped off at Barry-au-Bac - junction between Canal lateral a l’Aisne and Canal de l’Aisne - for supplies and look round.

Used to be major junction and port for peniches, with appropriate facilities. Now just horrid and abandoned, with a few people trying to scratch a living, with the attitude "only peniches and peniche people matter or are entitled to service, the rest of you get lost".

There used to be chandleries, fuel stations, and rows of shops. There are still the latter, but a bit seedy and most unfriendly. The fuel station is still in existence - but a big sign outside "peniches only".

Went on through lock - even had to rout L.K. out - into canal below, and moored up for lunch.

Didn’t realise it but canal from Berry-au-Bac to Bourg-le-Commin (junction where we turn right) is a conduit for water to hydroelectric power station at Bourg le Commin.

Hence we got to the junction very fast indeed.

Turned off, crossed the aqueduct that was something to do with the hydroelectric station, and took ourselves 300 metres up the canal and moored up under shade with nice square revets to tie against.

Poor choice - canal was wide enough, but not overwide, and it just so happened that the less obliging more cowboy like peniche skippers were about to-night (It was also Friday before a main holiday w/e).

First one revved up right opposite us, and just about lifted us onto the bank, 2nd just went far too fast, and floated us back down again.

Learned lesson, and re-moored with long ropes to trees - pins were in made ground, and came out far too easily.

3rd and subsequent peniches better mannered, and we better moored.

However, as we did not have Navicarte for this canal put off decision as to whether to continue until to-morrow.

 

 

August 12                                         Saturday

Bourg-le-Commin to Anizy le Chateau (Canal lateral a l’Aisne)

Lock chain (4 locks) and tunnel from overnight mooring to canal-side mooring overlooking rather nice "pleasure" lake for lunch. Moored up on revets with chains.

Although beginning of holiday w/e, virtually unoccupied - as was the camping site just beyond it.

Not much shade, and none at all on proper mooring pontoon, so moved on.

Fascinated, whilst in the lock chain and meeting and passing a peniche, to be greeted by a very English voice from Mrs peniche. Skipper was far too busy to more than acknowledge a brief "morning", and we all had to be on our ways.

The peniche was call Floan, the owners name board was D.G.Smith. Further research is necessary - Roy Brooks will know?

Came round corner at Anizy to find adequate moorings right beside a S.M.

Massive shop for which we didn’t have enough cash between us.

Put trolley by, and sped to neighbouring village/town to hole-in-the-wall, and all was made well.

2 large boats breasted up on the moorings. Cannot think why - sod’s law dictates that one boat’s loo window is always opposite the other boat’s master cabin, so why breast up unless lack of space or safety demand it.

Anyway, when nipping back to boat for cash card their 2 Alsatians and nondescript went for me. Not amused, although owner got them under control quickly enough, and suggested that they should "voetsek", with that incredibly offensive Bantu click of the mouth.

Dog owners turned out to be Belgium, who mostly know "Voetsek". (Voet se ek?)

We didn’t make any friends, but at least we were able to sit out on the bank whilst they shared their little tarpaulin sun shades with their great slavering beasts on their boats.

Hot all day - with brolley being put to good use.

 

 

August 13                                      Sunday

Anizy le Chateau to Guny (Lock 2) (Canal lateral a l’Aisne)

Went on down for quite a long way beyond Guny Lock, to see if any improvement in scenery. But canal has become lost again in it’s own corridor of bush and reeds, precluding any but brief glimpse of surrounding countryside.

The glimpses we get indicate that we are missing a lot - once again, summer growth of nettles and reeds to 7 feet or more on the banks is spoiling the canal - although we are actually running through a river bottom with many swamps, gravel pits full of stagnant water and overgrown lakes.

As this is a "commercial Canal", views for tourists are irrelevant - even if the boat movements of commercials are only half those of tourists!

Weather very hot, air lifeless and not a breath of breeze except what we create.

Problem is partially the weather, and partially entrapped air between trees.

Boat engine inclined to overheat - the canal water is supposed to cool it, but even it is warm!

Difficult, in bush, to find half decent moorings with requisite holdfasts such as bollards or trees.

Found a section where trees had been left, but a tractor’s width of bush had been slahed and a spot where trees just correct distance apart.

But whilst maneuvering the boat, a tree took a liking to the sun brolley, ripped it, and bent one of the main ribs.

This brolley is utterly necessary to our well-being in current weather.

Fortunately we had an accident with it last year, and had replaced all metal work (ribs, etc) in the winter, but had kept old undamaged frame parts, and laid in some small bolts of correct size, so was able to resurrect it almost as good as new - some nifty sewing sorted the canopy itself, so all was well, except it was so hot sweat was running over and off glasses, and surrounding swamp land ensured the mosquitoes were really terrible - just as bad as Scotland’s midges.