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2001

Monday 21st May

Mont-et-Marré to Bazolles.

We are going slower and slower - a total of 6 locks (incl a double and triple) and 6 kms. Probably not even enough to charge batteries.

The technique of sending boats up the double and triple were fascinating - by our standards. Have centre gates open on boat's entry, and treat as one long lock- closing centre gates only when right water height reached for lower of pair. Could be interesting flood if he got it wrong.

Arrived at Bazolles Lock to be met by Pete and Christine, and Eric and Leslie of l'Etale.
Just in time for lunch!

Shown over their cottage - they have courage - it was a real wreck when they took it on, and there are still many months of hard manual work before they can live in it - but it is going to be good.
Meantime they live on their boat Amity which we last saw in bits in Roanne summer before last, but which is now moored up in the canal some 25 metres from their front door looking very smart - can't be bad!
Boozy. communal lunch in open in front of house - sun very bright and hot - then up to a Dutch couple in the village for "drinks" in evening. Invite courtesy Christine & Pete.

Swayed back to boat for eggs and bacon at 2030 having put the world totally to rights.


Tuesday 22nd May
Bazolles to Sardy.
Lovely fresh sunny hot day - but strong wind developed.
Bit of "house-work" in morning, carrying tiles that Eric - with enthusiasm - was tearing off Pete's cottage roof.
Got sneaking feeling that there were a number of hangovers in the air.
Arranged to leave in company with l'Etoile after lunch, carry on through last 2 locks to summit, through tunnel, and down "the flight" to Sardy by bed-time.
Sounded a mighty tall order to us - especially as the "flight" locks are all close to-gether, have lots of bye washes, and we have found L.K.s a little idiosyncratic.
Sods law ensured that at our leaving time and L.K.'s opening time - of 1300 - 2 hire boats came down through locks, wind ensured that l'Etoile, which had blown round earlier in the morning (vide remarks re hangovers) went thoroughly aground during U turn maneuver, and we all actually started off at 1430.

No worries - through Bazolles locks and into summit lock, where L.K. gave us jolly news that there were no communications with the other end of his tunnel, and red light was on. Ably driven by Pete!
We had locked up - of course (but very unusually for France) - side by side, and this - possibly combined with our insisting on not tying up - to L.K.'s concern. Maybe this frightened him into getting coms working, so that we got off his patch to a green light for the tunnel. (French L.K.s have a total horror of spare boats being in their section, and will do almost anything to get one through or off).

Took Pete and Christine as supercargoes (+ small fierce watch dog) through tunnel - only one in France we've met with no lights - and disembarked them at mouth, where met hire boat with English who were "pleased to be able to talk a language they understood". What did they come to France for?

Girded loins and set off down flight.
Really went very well, as first time either of us had traveled in couple - except strong wind and clumsiness made us "knock" one lock knuckle rather hard, and jolly habit of L.K. to leave 1 top gate paddle half opened caused sudden and very nasty surge when lock emptying, and was inclined to re-align boats.

Totally astonished to find ourselves dribbling into Sardy early evening - faintly bent - having gone through 16 locks. It should be said that going through the locks involved us in nothing much more energetic than dishing out beer and cool drinks to team of L.K.s who saw us through. The number may have been relevant to the re-closing of the Loire, and therefore there was no-one behind us, and once we were off their patch, they could all go home.

In spite of strong wind, the day afternoon really went very well!

Faffed around trying to water, but the point had been disconnected, but in actual fact, we were nearly half full, anyway.
Went, thankfully, to supper and bed.
Note for the future - moorings are all shallow at edges up here, and marked water points at Sardy and les Granges closed, and at Chitry one has to pay the cafe owner to open the taps - if he is there.

Wednesday 23rd May
Sardy to Chitry les Mines.

Fine, and the wind had dropped - or else we were far enough down the valley to be sheltered.

We still get great pleasure from the beauty of this canal's surrounds, especially at this time of year. It is very rural, with lots of white (Charollais, I presume, although the map book calls them "Nivernais") knee and belly deep in buttercups and grass. Tried endlessly to get a good pic, but now have dozens of distance views of Nivernais meadows with little white dots in them. Should be mentioned that on this run we pass virtually through a cement works - but this year there was no wind, and no rain, although the boat us so filthy after yesterday/s wind that it would have made no difference, anyway.

Took it very easy to-day - late start after biking to the pub for bread and early stop.
Still in company with l'Etale.
Tied up initially on graveled formal moorings at Chitry, but went a little way back for shade and grass, and re-moored. Gang plank mooring, but did it badly, on the mistaken assumption that things were so quiet there'd be no one along. 2 hire boats later, and our gangplank was mis-aligned quite badly.

Thursday 24th May
Chitry les Mines to Tannay.

Managed a slightly earlier start - simply by confusing the L.K. and ourselves between "time of starting" and "time at first lock". We had stated the latter for 0900, which meant being on the way by 08.15.

Very pleasant run - keep saying how nice this canal is. So it is, no roads anywhere near this section since Decize, green fresh pasture-land, lots of clean white cattle, masses of buttercups and wild flowers- see photos and yesterday's remarks!
Wide vistas of park land type country.

Were joined at first lock by one of Burgundy Cruisers' large steel cruiser. Very large, very handsome, and a bit intimidating in the hands of hire boaters behind us in the lock. Our vulnerable spot is always the tiller's goose neck and the rudder itself.
Good thing, as the time/distance arithmetic was such that we stopped for lunch at a little mooring at Montceau le Comte.

Improved shining hour by doing engine oil change, and changing oil filter and fuel filter elements. Slight worry before, as bought elements in England amidst a lot of argy bargy and supply of wrong thing by Halfords and Lucas. However, all was well, except it was a hot operation. Job has been hanging over for about a week, but the evening, after a long - or even short - day does not seem an appropriate time to do these sort of things this year.

Arrived at Tannay early afternoon. Slightly dull stop, a Crown Blue Line Base opposite the moorings. In all fairness it is totally adequate mooring, right height, with water and lekestry, and is free.
Cycled up to Tannay itself in the afternoon, one of those long steady uphills that are hard work on bikes, although perfectly feasible, and that make us look wimpish if we walk. Definitely "smoking brake blocks" on the way down.
Regretfully found town undergoing bank holiday of the "everything's totally dead" kind, so returned to boat.
The road, and cycle trip, however, were great fun, with the the road itself being narrow, dead straight, with a line of great big trees on both sides, close enough to the edge to preclude any possibility of widening!
Gin and tonic evening on bank with Eric and Leslie.

Friday 25th May
Tannay to Chevroches

Arrived Chevroches early afternoon, with intention of mooring and enjoying the village - which includes the quite remarkable pice of countryside that in milleniums gone by was an ox-bow of the river Yonne.
Did so!

During these 3 or 4 days on the Nivernais we experinced the "readed Nivernais" lift bridges. However, a combination of 2 boats helping each other, and a vast improvement in their structure and maintensance (the bridges, not the boats) meant that they can be removed from the "dreaded things" list.

Much exploration - both bikes and foot, and much camera clicking - hence no descriptions, but it really is a beautiful village, it's claim to fame being that it was a quarry workers village, and designers, artisans, and materials were readily available
Moorings filled up with hire and a hotel boat - but all more or less stayed in their boats, or went right away, and we had pleasant evening and supper with Eric and Leslie.


Saturday 26th May
Chevroches to Pousseaux

Into Clamecy soon after starting - 4 kms and 2 locks.
Supermarket shopping for heavy stuff - trolley pushing down to boat.
Met Elisabeth, Hotel Boat - Sheena and Peter - who welcomed us into Auxerre the year before last on about our 3rd day in France.
Also met Pisgah - well known from her early years as a grain then hotel boat on the Avon. Met present owner and gave him LANT jubilee pamphlet with article on Pisgah,
Delighted with L.K. whom we recognised from previous visits, and who assured us he remembered us as well! Fame at last.

Clamecy's claim to fame - as far as boaters are concerned - is that here is the first section where we go onto the river Yonne. This year, like all rivers, it was high. However, not so high that there weren't a number of scullers and other oarsmen about, all facing backwards.
Felt it apropriate to flash our yellow beacon light.
We came off at the next lock again, only to be presented with the ever-lasting entertainment of the section where we leave a lock, and immediately cross the river at right angles. Seem to remember that last year we had a combination of a hire boat floating down stream in the middle unable to decide which of the 3 exits were his, and a massive rain storm that sent all of us - including lock keepers - cowering for shelter. This year the fun was confined to a much stronger current.