2001

  BACK TO CALENDAR 2001

 

 

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Map of Brittany Waterways - click on for full size.

 

 

 

Very necessary Introduction to our Brittany trip.

The log of our trip in Brittany was written, very sketchily and hurriedly, on an old Psion 3a, with minute and tender keys.   I have had the utmost difficulty in deciphering it, and what follows is the best I can do, now back with a "proper" computer, a desk, and nothing else that could be more fun to do.  Regrettably, knowing it would be a dreadful job, I put it off, and then had a major computer "collapse", so it is now Feb, and the log was originally written in Sept last year!  I tried to tidy it up with the spell checker, but it couldn't begin to cope with the typos, so I've just done me best.

 

Our "route" was down the River Mayenne from Chateau Gontier towards Angers - farther than we meant due to lack of concentration, then back up, turn west up River l'Oudon, a  tributary  to the Mayenne, then by easy stages back north to Laval, and then down again to Chateau Gontier.

 

 

September 1st,           Saturday,

Saverne to Chateau Gontier (in Brittany) 

 

Left Albert - snugged down and locked up in Saverne - on foot for rly station.   Only 10 min walk, and luggage for 2 weeks on hire boat minimal boating kit in rucksacks.

 

Departure time 0630 - ouch!

 

Crossed Paris trying not to look like trippers - worked journey out on wall maps, same as London Underground, then go.    Had been assured to allow time from station to station in Paris as 30 mins.

Never!  There is too much to do, and too much - like building works - to hold one up. We took a good hour.

 

Good and cheapish lunch in cafe on side and inside station, then TGV (1st class - didn't understand, but some compilation of our age and a promotion) to Laval.

 

We had 2 choices - Paris to Laval, and Paris to Angers.   Chateau Gontier is slap in between - about 20 kms from each.

Times to Laval more convenient - otherwise not much in it.

 

Taxi from Laval to CBL (Crown Blue Line) hire base at Chateau Gontier.

Found Carol, from flats in E.Cowes, awaiting us, complete with large quantities of provisions.  She had driven and ferried from UK last night!  Access to a car, while we sorted ourselves out, most useful.

Took over boat .   Had already looked it up on the internet, so knew more or less what we were getting.

 

Nipped up to le Clerk for extra shopping and had supper.

Carol to B. and B. for night - we had some problems with fridge and lights - and heater - all suffering from flat domestic battery.

 

Otherwise boat most comfortable, clean, and well presented. Staff very friendly, and not phased by so called experienced boaters - friends of the boss.   But the Fr3ench aren't, anyway.

 

Very curious experience, being introduced to the boat, and receiving driving lesson.   Fortunately, outside driving position - couldn't bear to sit or stand inside all day in a wheelhouse like so many boats - both hire and private.   Basic differences - 3 tons instead of 15, short and wide, unlike narrowboat, plastic instead of steel, steering wheel instead of tiller - otherwise a boat is a boat is a boat.   The steering position was superb.   Adequate space inside for a couple. Theoretically a 2 couple boat, but reckon they would be fighting like cats at the end of 6 days.   Used front cabi9n as "dressing room", and bear/wine cellar.

 

Going to bed super - we was tired!

 

 

September 2nd, Sunday

Chateau Gontier to open country at pk 87 near le Port-Joulain. (Down River)

 

Fresh batteries fitted - all joy.

Carol to breakfast fry-up at about 10, after bread run (and matches)

 

Then off down river through C.G. bridge.

 

fresh Batteries fitted - all joy.

Beautiful day, sunny but coolish.

Left down river about 11.30, under C.G. Bridge.

Very different driving hire cruiser with wheel.

 

Superb rural countryside, many beautiful chateaux and water mills overlook river and locks.

 

Locks all electric, but manned, or more usually womaned. Most interesting experiencing what hire boaters have to "suffer" on first day.   The trouble is we all try too hard, and won't relax.

 

Spent most of time admiring countryside and getting used to boat.

Found nice turfy bank in open countryside - totally silent _ for overnighter

This is relaxing boating at it's best - and what a lovely part of the world!

 

September 3rd,           Monday,

p.k. 87 to Montreuil-sur-Maine

 

Woke to dull grey overcast.

 

Set off down river, but rain set in at once.

 

Stopped at Chenille-Change and sat in boat whilst rain fell without stop till after tea time.

However, it developed into lovely warm sunny evening, so we wandered off and got to village Halte Nautique.

 

Enquired about bread for tomorrow - "Klaxon" at about 0930!

 

 

September 4th,           Tuesday,

Montreuil-sur-Maine to Port Albert.

 

In morning duly caught "Klaxon" (a "Klaxon" of course, is a horn, but the word is used to denote travelling bread vans, that usually have special high pitched Italian type horns that they use copiously) and ensured immediate food supplies

 

Down river - very pretty - and a little way up the l'Ourdon to de Lion l'Angers for forgotten shopping - in particular aspirin which got left behind on Albert.

 

Initial crisis at moor up - only exact length of boat available on jetty, strong wind blowing, and rain threatening.

 

Genial fellow - ALL boaters are hirers here, there are NO private boats, but hire boats are numerous - from a Connoisseur caught lines, showed way to S.M., etc.

 

Very pleasant town - completed shopping under gathering storm clouds.

 

Just made it to boat, set off back to river junc where we had seen nice jetty with good view, and then the heavens opened.

 

Splendid opportunity to try out inside steering, tried it - and windscreen wiper. Certainly a great deal more comfortable than Albert, but one does not feel part of the boat when maneuvering, and at times end up with peculiar results.

 

After lunch weather cleared.

Went on down river almost to Montreuil-Juigne, but it was near knocking off time, and nice moorings - which had been really plentiful up river - were either horrid or impracticable.

Returned upriver to Port Albert - nice open sunny grassy - but sloping wall.

This boat doesn't seem to object as much as Albert, and moored nicely.

 

 

September 5th Wednesday

Port Albert to above la Himbaudiere on R. l'Oudon.

 

Intention to go up River l'Oudon.

 

Good start - charged off down river from Port Albert, thinking we were above junc to l'Oudon and Le Lion d'Angers town.

 

We weren't.

 

S. thought we were on some other agenda and said nothing for about an hour.

 

Corrected error by turning back, and eventually made Lion d'Angers again mid afternoon, having been stopped on our way by p.k.'s launch hour. (12.30 to 1400 on this waterway)

 

Fortunately, crepe restaurant close, so crêpes foe lunch + cidre in tea cup without saucer (not a mistake - the custom)

 

Lion d'Angers at tea time, but weather still fine, so off on bikes (hire Crown Line bikes) to large very competent horsey place full of lovely shiny horses beside trace track.

 

Happy hour communing with stallions in boxes.

Thence on up river, past 2 locks - hand operated by keepers, but still only about 1 metre rise.

 

Found nice open country mooring, with a sort of half jetty. Fence only to lay boat against, but wide solid gangway to shore.

 

September 6th Thursday

above la Himbaudiere on R. l'Oudon to River mouth via Segre.

 

Overcast, drizzly, cool or cold all day.

 

Up to Segre - head of navigation on l'Ourdon.   Nice little town. Nice river, too. Very placid, and quite small and narrow up here - only 18 kms from mouth to the head. Mostly through meadows, coming right down to the water's edge, past the odd slate roofed steading or cottager.

 

Little settlement on this stretch, and where there is, it is very old.

 

Saw - as we have done since we came to Brittany - masses of Kingfishers.

Moored up to "get a few things" and have lunch. Very peaceful.

 

Thence back down the river to it's mouth with the Mayenne, to a pontoon on the tip of the promontory that contains the Haras stud farm, horse retirement home, and race track.

 

Found ourselves virtually under the Chateau that belongs to - or which possesses - the horse complex that we visited yesterday.

 

Not a "keep out" notice in sight.

 

Wandered back on foot into the stables area, but like yesterday, no real action seemed to be taking place, although plenty of horses about.

 

Pumped bilges, as requested, and managed to put great sheet of diesel into and onto river. Presume diesel leaking into sump

Broke up and abolished slick - stank - with washing up liquid, Ajax cleaner, and propeller.

Not clever!

 

 

September 7th        Friday

l'Oudon River junc with Mayenne to Menil.

 

Dull and overcast..

 

Made our gently way up-river without fuss or hastle, and without remark

 

Countryside very like English as we like to think of it - little green fields, neatly hedged, black or red and white cows, all very tidy, houses with grey slate roofs.

Differences - chateaux - quite magnificent - frequent, and, of course, the window shutters.

 

Drew in to mooring pontoon and blocked view and sun from lady sitting there-on.

 

Crazy professor type was running around muttering to himself whilst sailing a radio controlled model yacht.

 

Gossiped a bit with him - in French, then herself of the blocked view re-appeared from a canoe, joined us, speaking perfect English.

Pleasant evening, with drinks.

 

Received a copy of to-days Daily Mail from Camping Car people in nearby park. First English newspaper in 4 months - what a heap of badly written, badly presented non-news rubbish.

 

 

September 8th Saturday

Menil to Neuville.

 

Still cool and overcast with occasional sun.

 

Enjoying as before - these waterways are remarkable for 2 things - firstly there are no private boats, but masses - really masses - of hire boats. Secondly the locks have rises on this section of around 1.3 metres, are electrical, and are manned.

 

Makes for comfortable cruising.

 

Passed through Chateau Gontier - where we started.

 

Naturally we didn't look around town when we were locking up boat, so had long lunch here instead.

Very pretty and picturesque, with magnificent gardens and town center based on the river

 

 

September 9th Sunday

 

Neuville to midway between Port-Rhingeard and Bonne Lock.

Cold wind, overcast.

 

Managed to catch the traveling bread lady as we started, and thence gently up river, enjoying scenery, and people.

 

Moored to pleasant and good bankside bush mooring, with plenty of water under us, so tied up well to pegs, with boat floating right into bank.

 

Still chillily windy.

 

September 10th Tuesday

midway between Port-Rhingeard and Bonne Lock to above Bonne Lock via Laval.

 

Day started at 0430, with an almighty crash on deck just above our heads.

 

Struggled across sleepy partners body - very uphill struggle - grabbed torch, and staggered out through cabin of sharply leaning boat.

 

Cabin exit door on uphill side, so exited boat, looked around through sleep bunged eyes and thick mist.

 

River water level seriously down - perhaps 3 feet from last night - this is a river, how can it be?

 

Got plank ashore, teetering on it's ends, went ashore, to see mooring pins torn out, and boat lieing aground on steep bank. 

 

 Below hull conformation not known, but angle steep enough to be frightening, and steadily increasing while we watched to the extent that boat appeared to be about to roll right over.

 

Took good look round, then lost torch in the excitement, but cabin electrics working adequately.   It appears these boats don't have or need forward facing headlights.

 

Made management decision to remain on shore, whilst directing operations, with S. still inside.   Bravely directed her to pass out credit cards, camera,  mobile phone,  passports,  clothes, and then to exit herself,  in that order.

 

Continuous and heavy crashes as all kitchen ware, crockery, cutlery, from uphill side of boat cupboards, left stowage under gravitational force and descended onto floor.

 

Contacted Pompiers and Sapeurs - where has river gone - come and stop us rolling over.   

 

The P. and S. are theoretically the Fire Brigade, but actually they are really the first step when calling any - except police - emergency service.   I am told that if one has an accident, and needs an ambulance, they will ship you off in theirs for free, whereas the SAMU will charge.

 

Eventually 2 extremely polite chappies arrived (apparently, in France, most of the Pompeurs and Sapeurs are volunteers, so their politeness was all the more praiseworthy, as we must have been a good kilometre from the nearest motorable track) shook us warmly by the hand, and looked round. 

 

They had a torch.

 

As they arrived, the river that had virtually left us high and dry leaning drunkenly to-wards its middle, stopped going out quite so fast.

 

It also started to drizzle.

 

S. and P. had passed the lock down river of us on their way.   Without saying so in so many words, we gathered that what we suspected had happened - paddle left open, draining our pound, but one gathered they told him/her a thing or two on way past.

 

Agreed with S. and P. that there was really very little they could do, except contact lock keeper again, and also contact the hire company when it opened at 08000.

 

Could have done without the latter - water was clearly rising, by now, but could hardly tell them not to.

 

Water continued to rise, and by 0900, when a slightly bedraggled chap with a coil of rope from CBL arrived over the km of track through the long wet grass between us and the road, we were properly afloat, had cleaned up the boat - including the fridge, which stayed shut, but put all the cauliflower cheese in the sugar (why was the sugar in the fridge?) and had had breakfast.

 

He confirmed that there was some cock-up over paddles at the lock below us - something to do with a hydro-electric factory.   Rubbish - said plant doesn't just run during the one night that we are on the river!

 

Went on up - in nice weather - to Laval, did some shopping, and sorted out bookings and tickets back to Saverne next week.

 

Spent the afternoon reclining on a mattress in the sun on the river bank!