Moret-Sur-Loing to Melun. River Seine

Up with the lark - a cold damp one, and got away 0830 - as did Gordon and Gwen, going - in their case - upstream, having made strange arrangements to pay electricity bill. No one came to collect, so envelope of cash thrust under capitaine’s door at St Mammés!

Seine very large, very wide, and somehow not hospitable in freezing against us - north wind.

Plugged down river - steadily donning more clothes.

Absolutely no traffic whatsoever.

Through 2 enormous locks - in both cases called them up on VHF, got sensible answer - could even understand most of it. Waiting for a lock with 1 or more red lights glaring at you is very unsettling and nervous making, when one does not know what is going on. But if one is contact with the L.K., at least one is sure that he/she knows of one’s existence, and that wheels are in motion - however creakily. The little hand held VHF is worth anything.

Another "gimmick" that came in handy - met a 4 peniche push tow - 2 X 2 coming up like the clappers. Sheared across river (the péniche, that is) and headed first straight for us, then for our bank well in front of us. Put on yellow warning flashing light, and they straightened up - quite suddenly. Albert’s front profile is so small, that whilst one cannot forgive skippers for not seeing us, on a cold grey misty day with 4 péniche tied into a knot to manage, it is understandable.

Had lunch on the hoof. So cold and so grey, a picnic - even if we could have found a spot - would not have been appropriate.

Found wall outside little private club P. de P. where we overnighted year before last - and on assumption better the known than the unknown devil, stopped, and called it a day. We were cold and tired, as well! These boating holidays in France are really rugged.

Traffic now heavy, fast, and fascinating. 4 barge push tows, 2 peniche push tows, and single - péniche and the next size up. They all seem to have woken up from their holiday, and Albert fidgeted a lot in the wash.

Finished at about 1530, tidied up, coffee, and went straight to sleep. Over indulgence in force feed fresh air this morning. We were heading north into a north wind.

Melun to Port a l’Anglais (outskirts of Paris)

No traffic on Seine before breakfast, but sods law, as we untied to do the obligatory "U" turn (we had moored up facing upstream against the current, and facing back where we came from) a string of peniches and bigger craft and multies came charging down river.

Did a sneaky 180 degree by sticking snout into harbour entrance, shuffling round, and got out facing right direction by the time first shock wave hit us.

Then it was plug on, in steadily strengthening wind, noting all possible stopping places suitable for a mooring place - and up here there are plenty - we think!

Come 11.30 we were so hungry - we had left our moorings at 0805 - that continuous coffee and teas no longer served, so we had lunch. Regrettably, S. - who is a rabid non fish liker - made up the fish soup I had bought in her absence, stated firmly that it was disgusting, and no one could eat it, and ditched it. Many sulks!

Now that we were wanting a mooring, they were either far between, or we didn’t like them.

Made for P. de P. opposite Juvisy sur Orge, which had been out target - vaguely - since morning, but having entered, tied up, switched off engine - decided that we really didn’t like it. Very enclosed by bush in a little hollow, jetties all rotten and dropping apart, bollards consisted of rings in brackets under the main walk way that protruded well outside jetty, and were the first thing a boat touched. OK for big fat fendered boats, but no us.

Pulled out, looked in to "Port de Paris" - just down from "Port aux Cerises", but had worked out, that as it was still only 13.30, and we had had lunch, we were in reasonable distance of Pont des l’Anglais, just up from the junction Seine/Marne.

Pushed on - little commercial, and virtually no private, traffic, but we did meet Dibbitoo - unfortunately half way round a blindish bend.

Tried to stop at a lock mooring - further upstream they are giving over some of the very long lock waiting areas to overnight moorers, complete with electricity - but down here, no. The ledge along the top of the revetments - concrete - was level with our roof, and although we do have suitable protection, it was too uncomfortable, so we pushed on as soon as we got a green light.

It was this lock that we were followed in by a double pusher, but there was no hassle.

Second half of afternoon a real battle. Fortunately the sun came out, and winter clothes changed for shorts and short sleeves.

Continued calling locks on arrival - very comforting to know the LK knows we are about, even if we still have to wait.

However, the wind steadily increased, to the stage that extreme nervousness was the order of the day if we had to turn in any way so that the side of the boat took the force. Would probably have had difficulty in retaining control.

Also it was blowing the flowers to hell and gone, and sunburn conditions - especially after recent poor weather had left us largely pale and interesting - were force 10.

Last 3 or 4 reaches dragged - frequent requests to map reader "how many more bridges (the Seine must be the most bridged city in the world). Albert was pitching now, just like the Bay of Biscay.

Pont de l’Anglais to Neuilly-sur-Marne River Marne

After yesterday’s marathon, felt a quieter day was indicated.

Visit - on foot - to Le Clerk, just behind moorings, at 0830 proved abortive, they don’t open till 0900. So waited, wrote up log, cleaned boat, and re-visited. One of those S.M. so vast that one cannot actually find anything one is looking for.

Off through the last Seine lock at 10.30 and turn right just on the edge of Paris and out again up the Marne.

Quite tricky, this bit. Locks suddenly appear round blind corners, with peniches protruding - fortunately nothing larger than the 40 metre ones - blasting down river completely impervious to anything coming up.

Through outskirts of Paris - not so like Henley and Pangbourne as the Seine, but more intimate seeming. Lunch on one of those river walls that in the past have given the impression that the "no mooring" sign has just fallen down, but will be replaced to-morrow. In fact, we were very comfortable under a tree - planks protecting sides against rough cast concrete ledge, chained up to half inch round re-inforcing rod welded just below concrete all along.

The locks we had bad memories of from 2 years ago seemed fine and gentle, and arrived here at about 1500.

Quick look at P. de P., but not impressed - once again full of permanent moorers and crappy boats - visitors mooring sufficient for ski boat!

Through lock, and moored up for night just beyond, under the trees, next to an ex CBL boat - Idefix.

Found one bollard torn out and lying on it’s side, but didn’t get message, until Idefix’s skipper, Rusty, from South Africa, told us that he had been tied to the bollard when a Dutch cruiser passed him in such a way that it ripped the bollard out of the ground. He added that there was a constant stream of peniches passing, and those going out of the lock were inclined to rev up just before reaching us, resulting in extremes of discomfort.

Took boat back behind Idefix - job quickened when peniche showed up round corner - and moored very carefully, with one rope across much used public path to a tree.

We were rocked almost continuously, until 1830, when all calmed down.

Went to lock bridge, and watched peniches into and out of lock - very interesting from different view-point.

Rusty for drinks on bank - table and chairs in comfort. Much admired and envied by serious runners and walkers. Got through 2 bottles of wine.

Slept well.

Neuilly-sur-Marne to Meaux             River Marne

Set off late, result of last night’s potations.

Morning interesting - through section of river that was in flood and scared us 2 years ago. Virtually no current, at present - no serious rain.

Afternoon through very dull cut that shortens trip dramatically along very canal like cut, through nothing but grass and trees and more grass and trees - 11 kms of it.

Through Meaux tunnel, and down to P. de P. some spaces, but none big enough for us. Moored up on new jetty, further up-stream, that turned out to be Nichol’s Hire Base’s change over jetty.

Quite happy for us to stay on it - in solitary splendour - until about 1600 to-morrow.

Quick trip around town - flowers and gardens super. Highly impressed to meet red squirrel coming out of flower bed - sniffing - and nipping up tree.

Back to boat in time to see what looked like the whole Belgium navy powering down to the P. de P. with huge bow waves. Watched in astonishment, but could see - through binocs in distance - that they had managed to squeeze themselves into the available spaces - at what cost to existing moorers, one doesn’t know.

Back down - on bikes, naturally - for second look, and they had managed quite well. One couple had breasted up in such a way that they completely overshadowed - virtually all round - a poor little yacht, but they were all in.

Took lots of photos - Meaux’s flower displays have to be4 seen to be believed - they are magnificent - both hanging baskets, and municipal flower beds.

Up to the Cathedral to admire the garden there - but after 3 or 4 longish days on the go, no energy for site-seeing, and pleased to return to the boat.

Meaux to Mary-sur-Marne River Marne

Intended to have a short days boating in fine weather.

Weather was - fine, sunny and cool.

Little bit of food shopping (bread, etc) and photo taking in Meaux before departure.

Left comfortably at 11ish, knowing first possible moorings at first lock some 20 kms up river.

Nonsense - there are plenty of moorings fairly close to Meaux, then long run through trees. Remember last time they all dripped dankly, and it rained. This time happenstance of note were the large number of commercials, and few privates. The commercials are hauling building materials into Paris, and because it was Friday evening and locks shut at 1800 now-a-days were going very fast. This doesn’t matter - the river width is plenty wide enough to preclude passing discomfort - there is the danger that a few seconds day dreaming and they are hugely overshadowing your backside as the boat wanders sleepily across the river, or are in a collision course. In each case it is possible to see a huge toothy grin from the wheelhouse - they love catching us out.

Moored up on pontoon - new (?) since our last visit 2 years ago - outside hotel-restaurant in Mary-sur-Marne. Chairs off, and in to shade after late lunch to do nothing carefully.

Wandered round village - much larger than appeared from moorings.

Harvest in full swing, with tractor-trailer units being driven by lads in much the same way as they drive there motor velos - lots of throttle blipping, and maximum noise and perceived speed. Very noisy over nearby bridge - but really not that bad!

Supper time watched the rich and famous come to the Restaurant up behind us - quick inspection earlier had shown that prices not really in our class.

Straight up river - 1 lock only - to la Fert-sous-Jouarre, about 20 kms.

Weather started off kindly, and improved - sunshine and cool air, but got quite muggy hot by mid-afternoon and evening.

Watered up in the 1 lock we went through - seems to be the custom to have drinking water and hoses available in all locks - but one can hardly hold up proceedings by occupying the lock whilst filling water tanks.  To-day being Saturday, there was no problem.

There was no commercial traffic at all - the peniches would probably run if there was someone to load them - but both loading points we passed were shut down - presumably for the week-end, although they are so high on high banks it is difficult to see what is or has been going on.

We passed just 1 boat going up, and after we moored up, maybe 3 went down! Bit worrying - but there is plenty of commerce into Paris at the Paris end of building materials - sand and gravel.

Stopped for very late lunch at jetty in la Ferte, then realized they had electricity, and we wanted to do computer things and hoovering - and sit under the trees and do nothing - so after lunch we stayed on and did the latter.

This picture has nothing to do with to-day - it just fits in, and shows how the sneeky sods creep up on one when attention wanders.

Later after-noon and evening vaguely hassled by passers by - dogs messing around in the water point up on the bank, and noisy dogs and children bathing, etc, but none of it in any way anti us - just a mild irritation. Far worse, of course, on Sats and Suns are the 14-16 year olds on scooters and cross-country bikes (under 50 cc) who remove the innards of their exhausts and ride around town throttle blipping, making the most dreadful noise.

However, if this is all they do, and is their way of making the statements that our dreadful youth in UK make by vandalising and mugging the elderly and each other for mobile phones - then the French choice is infinitely superior, and good luck to the little horrors!

Bit of boat cleaning in evening - outside of hull attracts dust - particularly harvested grain dust at this time of year, and a few drops of water - splash or rain - make it look disgusting very quickly.