Pargny-Filan to Bourg et Comin. Canal de l’Oise a l’Aisne

Wandered off if in desultory fashion mid morning, with no real intentions as to where we were going, or when we had to be there.

This, of course, is the ultimate dream of the retired boater - read Ratty’ s comments on boating in "The Wind in the Willows".

Through the tunnel - rather too close to the backside of an extremely smelly peniche, then down the locks to the pontoon moorings at the junction of the l’Oise a l’Aisne, and the Canal Lateral a l’Oise a l’Aisne.

As there was no one on the pontoon - extremely rare, it is getting more and more difficult to find empty moorings where water and electricity are free - felt we had to take it up.

This is where we stayed about 6 weeks ago when it was so hot we had to cower in the shade of the ancient dredger parked on blocks on the lawn to serve as a visual centre piece for the moorings.

Shortly after Tony and Gill in Alchemy arrived. Went to help moor up - but Tony leapt onto pontoon with necessary ropes, and as they were flying Blue Ensign - indicating R.N. or R.N.R. connections - felt superfluous. Discovered later that Tony is 82, served on MGBs in the Channel during the war, and is registered blind.

Started to rain, so we all retired to our own boats to see it out.

Met up at tea time, and had a convivial early/late evening to-gether on Albert.. They actually come from Richmond, Natal - scene of our happiest 4 years in South Africa, but were unable to pass on much information concerning friends there. As it is over 20 years since we left - not surprising.

Their boating activities are the hairiest we have ever heard. For the last 3 months they have been wandering around northern France, and Belgium, in a 9 metre cruiser, with only 1 motor out of 2 working. Last year they were at sea in the Channel and to the Channel Islands.

Intrepid!

Bourg et Comin Canal de l’Oise a l’Aisne to 3 locks up (picnic site) on the Canal l’Aisne a Marne.

Nice run, but very uphill, against current to Berry au Bac - although having said that, it is 3 to 4 hours of fairly indeterminate reeds and bush, and does drag a little.

At Berry au Bac left this canal and turned right at tee junc onto Canal l’Aisne a Marne.

It is unbelievable how weather and country can change, apparently as a result of leaving one canal and entering another - although the distance traveled is probably half a kilometre.

Bush and forest changed - instantaneously - to vast fields of cultivation leading across and up to the champagne vines on the Mont de Champagne.

The weather changed from overcast, rain squalls and dullness, to bright but blowing a major hooley.

We staggered through 4 locks - proceeding crab wise. The flowers in the pot blew over and had to be hurriedly - and dangerously - rescued, then the bicycle chariot started wandering across the roof heading for the drink. We were just able to keep the boat going in the desired direction, because on the whole the wind was dead ahead. If we laid off a bit, we don’t have the power to re-cover.

At the top of the 4th lock, reckoned enough was enough, found a picnic site with a high wall and low hedge canalside, and cowered in wind shadow.

Passage much complicated by lock not working, but we are beginning - we think - to suss these older automatics. They were designed when nothing but 38 metre peniches used the canals, going at half a km per hour, and when they passed a radar or infra red detector they took about a minute or more to pass it, which means the equipment can grind along as slow as it wishes, and still work perfectly. The more modern ones are virtually instantaneous, but this is our 4th passage through these locks, and we have never got through without calling up the keeper to rectify breakdowns.

On this occasion, tried the hat over the seeing eye radar - lock worked beautifully.

Moored up for night!

Closely followed by a Belgium, with a high sided cruiser thing - couldn’t control it at all. Took 3 of us to hold him while he moored.

Lock 4 Alger (picnic site) to Sillery on the Canal l’Aisne a Marne.

Woke to high drama.

Dull, cold, and overcast, with showers.

Boats above and below lock waiting to go through - lock thoroughly broken down - 2 VNF people running around, as peniches were waiting, and they complain bitterly if held up.

As we weren’t going through it, felt it would be appropriate to go off in front of rush which would come up when lock repaired.

Sure enough, next lock didn’t work either, but again Tilley hat to rescue, placed over radar until a load clunk stated that it was working.

On through Rheims. Most interested to note that the steel works which seems to line the whole of the east side of the canal run down to Rheims from the north, and which last time was almost totally dead (took a couple of photos as "history", of steel sheet rolls on quay side) was buzzing, with 6 or 8 peniches awaiting loads, more being unloaded or loaded, and miles of lines of steel rolls wrapped up awaiting transport, fork lifts going everywhichwhere, steam and smoke and noise issuing forth, etc. Wanted to stop and take photos, but empty peniche waved us on - he wanted to turn round to load up.

Into Rheims proper. Tried - once again - BP fuelling station, and once again found it closed and dead. with 2 peniches very thoroughly tied up across it’s mooring. Once again, we were there outside normal working hours - 12.05! Strange, because it doesn’t look abandoned - or no more so than most of those sort of places look.

In city, tried to stop at canalside road filling station, but too many peniches perambulating. Daren’t moor up canalside if peniches passing - they suck all the water back from under the boat, and drop it - the boat - onto the canal bottom, which slopes steeple into the middle of the canal. Bad for all stuff on table tops, and unfastened cupboards. (We have rubber bands on cupboard door knobs, and everything is stuck down with tic-tac, but even so, would rather not risk it, so keep going gently forward until peniche is actually passing, then put foot and enjoy sensation of accelerated skiing, until he is past, wave a casual hand at the skipper, and turn into his wake).

Lunch somewhere or other well moored up to bollards outside Rheims, then onto proper pontoon moorings with all facilities at Sillery.

Improved shining hour checking batteries. One, a recently purchased (18 months) gel battery, whilst still showing green light that is supposed to assure us it is still in good condition, is loosing charge very quickly, and has been suspect for a while - think it could be dragging the others down with it. Disconnected it.

Checked diesel - 20 galls in tank, 4 X 4.5 gall jerricans full. Pumped 2 jerricans into main tank, would like to pump other 2 in, and re-fill all 4 cans, but no immediate bunkering facility.

Sillery to Conde sur Marne Canal l’Aisne a Marne.

Across the river plain below the Mont de Champagne - view too hazy to see the champagne vineyards, so photography impossible.

Along to the tunnel (de Billy - lovely name, goes under the Mont de Billy) Tunnel - to find a red light against us. Bit concerned, as couldn’t see the radar gadgets that tell the L.K. that we are waiting, but reckoned they knew what they were on, and we weren’t the first boat to arrive against a red light.

Suddenly internal lights of tunnel went on, so obviously action, but still red light.

After about an hour - having resisted almost overpowering temptation to try and phone - heard engine noises, tunnel lights went out and in due course peniche appeared.

Green light came on, we went in, and as we passed tunnel mouth radars, tunnel lights came on. Tunnel dead straight, but as usual, apparently steeply up-hill.

Clear run from tunnel down through 8 lock flight of automatics that all worked immaculately - signs of big works on them at several locks.

Into Conde to find a small boat moored on only long pontoon - idiot long term moorer.

Went on sheet piles between P de P and lock. Soon joined by a peniche - heading up-hill waiting for to-morrow, and in due course joined by 2 more, all vaguely breasted up, but essentially sitting stationary on the canal bottom.

Conde sur Marne to Chalon en Champagne Canal lateral a la Marne.

Dead straight canal, but there is enough shrubbery, trees, willows, to hide starkness, and also enough commercial traffic to make trip enjoyable.

Cold and windy, in the morning, but improved to sunny and warm from late morning on.

Into Chalon en Champagne, and onto the "mud quay" we were on 2 years ago.

Found lot more traffic than the - pottery peniche from Cumières doing his thing, empty peniche entertaining guests, and One Chance - large cruiser, Steve and Mrs. Steve ex of the R.N., last seen in Peronne before Somme trip.

Pushed through to the end of the quay, and either it has been dredges (unlikely) or water is much higher, because although we stirred mud, didn’t go aground.

Went to "masculin and Feminin" hairdresser - not a success. Tried to shampoo my hair (!!!!), did Herself's, then kept us waiting for hours. Gave it up, got broken glasses (screw broken, then lost) mended, and wandered back to boat.

Long gossip with Steve of One Chance - they’ve changed their minds from going to the Midi, to wintering in Holland, and going to Finland next year!

Chalon en Champagne to "picnic" site 8kms out of Chalon. Canal lateral a la Marne

Nice day, pleasant boating, in fine weather - sunny and cool, but windy, along dead straight canal through open countryside.

About mid-day saw Alert moored up at a picnic spot no-where in particular, but with bollards, and shade, and as we seem to meet or pass Alert every 3 or 4 months for the past 3 years, reckoned it was as good excuse as any to stop and meet properly!

Weather lovely, sunny, and warm - question: If the summer has been pretty ordinary weather wise, does one enjoy good weather when it comes by boating furiously in it, or by stopping and appreciating it?

Stopped and pleasant day socialising with Helen and Ian, and doing odd jobs, and doing not very much.

"picnic" site 8kms out of Chalon to Chaussée sur Marne. Canal lateral a la Marne

Water shallow at last night’s mooring - sufficiently shallow for us - in spite of one ladder - to be well canted over by morning, after overnight drop in level.

To avoid embarrassment - we were quite close to Alert, and a large peniche might have "undone" our mooring and sent us crashing into Alert’s very exposed rudder - modified tie-up with second ladder and anchor rope to large boulders in early morning, but still not very confident in event of fast passer by.

Pulled out about 9.00, and traveled 9 kms in fine weather to very nice mooring - lots of bollards (hooks) close to-gether, shade till afternoon, nice village with baker, alimentation, Post Office, etc, far enough away not to be intrusive, but close enough for easy cycle ride.

Decided to continue doing "not a lot" at least until to-morrow.

One of those decisions - should one, in fine weather - sunny and cool - to sit enjoy it, or should one get on with boating whilst it is fine?

Great philosophical question - one only to be considered after a "good" week.