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July 6
Sunday
In Dole.
Re-explored Dole on foot - looked for Sunday market,
but got it wrong. No market.
Tried to visit Church (assured by local that,
although of Cathedral size, is in fact "only" a Church) but again
a blank - Sunday, and services taking place.
Has to be admitted that we were still in
unenterprising mode, and really did very little, except enjoy Dole - a
beautiful town, and beautifully kept. Millions of flowers.
Drinks on Becta in evening.
July 7
Monday
Dole to Rochefort-sur-Nenon. Canal Rhône au Rhine -
River Doubs
Nice clear sunny day with cool breeze.
Watered up on hotel boat mooring in Dole port, then
wandered up through first lock to find T’skaatjie (25 metres ??) on
the most perfect mooring. Water and lekistry piped in from lock cottage -
probably, totally unofficial - "my friend the Lock Keeper organised
it" - tree shade all day, cool and breezy, lovely outlook over the
valley, 3 mins cycle into Dole, but sufficiently remote therefrom. Lucky old
them - Charlotte and Harold.
In fact, it is the spot we moored up to for lunch 4
years ago, and from which we were hustled into the port by striking lock
keepers.
On up the Doubs, very pleasant rural scenery -
highish reedy banks, small fields beyond, small grain ripening rapidly, and
low green maize.
Through Rochefort during lunch time, found the
pontoon under the "Virgin’s Leap" occupied, so tried to tie up
to the bank. Too shallow, and too many rocks, and even when pulled hard in
couldn’t get ashore.
Breasted up to small cruiser, but within 10 minutes
hire boat on other half pulled out, so dropped back and moored properly.
Lunch on shore under trees - climate now perfect.
Couple of camping cars, couple of fishermen.
Read and snoozed all afternoon, explored/cycled
village in afternoon/evening. Lovely place, clean, neat, tidy, and ablaze
with flowers.
July 8
Tuesday
In (or on) Rochefort-sur-Nenon. Canal Rhone au Rhine
- River Doubs.
Pleasant quiet mooring, pleasant weather, nice
village, so combined all 3 with a day of reasonable inactivity.
At lunch time quiet mooring became quite busy with
picnickers, but the quiet type! There was even a minivan full of what we
could only think were "young offenders". They were lads of the
noisy hooligan age, but were so well behave, quiet and well organised with
their barby it wasn’t true.
Had mooring to ourselves until evening, when Swiss
from Connoisseur moored up in front, having bounced off us.
Exploration included village - unbelievably flower
filled, clean and pretty - really lovely, and walk along behind to the
Virgin’s Leap (noble virtuous French girl leapt over cliff to avoid
Prussian Soldier’s attentions, but angel ensured her skirt stayed down and
acted as parachute).
Climbed up to top - not excessive - locking bikes to
canal fence. Along the top - semi cleared - undergrowth cleared, grass left
to develop, but lots of box bushes apparently growing wild, but trimmed up,
amongst short "wild" grass, Chapel - locked up - at summit. All
very clean, neat, and enjoyable, not messed with. Nice walk.
Afternoon and evening spent reading and watching
rock climbers on cliffs behind us. Horrifying to watch - even young girls
happily charging up 30 or 40 feet, then looking down to ask what to do next
- no fear of heights. Adults well equipped with gadgetry apparently
"training" - fascinating.
Hotel boat in evening, but moored off about 400
metres down from us. Very long gang-plank. Got gossiping with passenger -
Dutch boat, chartered by group. Noted no flag - presumably very low key -
why not hire a French boat in France. Knowing the Dutch, it probably came
fully stocked with all supplies from Holland, so there is no profit for
France in it’s presence.
July 9
Wednesday
Rochefort-sur-Nenon to St. Vit.
Canal Rhône au Rhine - River Doubs
Long day - hot - and starting to meet problem of
nowhere to moor, due to the extreme lowness of water level - bush moorings
virtually out.
Countryside becoming more hilly and forested.
Pulled into canoe/kayak mooring marked, and found
scrubby little spot below old mill with a few very small pontoons almost
completely occupied by permanently moored cruiser.
In fact, after sniffing around, managed to get
Albert securely tied up with stern on pontoon, bow tied to bank with odd
rowing boat acting as pontoon for front half.
Drinking water promised in book not, in fact,
available. Cruiser had own - horrifyingly dangerous - connection to pole for
electricity.
Took chairs up onto bank, and sat in shade - mooring
turned out quite comfortable.
July 10
Thursday
St. Vit to Thorais.
Canal Rhône au Rhine - River Doubs
Getting to grips with hot weather and incredible
lock zappers.
Came up Thorais lock really looking forward to
stopping on the little halt that was so beautifully laid out for it’s
opening 5 years ago when we were the first boat to stay here.
Absolutely horrified. Clearly no maintenance has
been carried out since that day. Grass is long, rank, course, weedy and the
place was filthy with litter. Showers locked up, and no L.K. in house. Water
tap dripping heavily. All looked a mess and thoroughly uninviting.
Found Paul & Valerie in Zwaan in
"residence".
July 11
Friday
Thorais to Besançon.
Canal Rhône au Rhine - River Doubs.
Meant to stay on in Thorais, but too gloomy over
mooring, and very hot, and no shade mid-day and afternoon.
Went up to far village to buy bread first thing
(good boulangerie - but epicerie just a joke, empty shelves except for 2
cases of beer fronted up.
On to Besançon and Into Port de Plaisance, moored
up diagonally across 2 pontoons, so that we did not stick into channel. It
was from this mooring that someone - suspected bateau mouche crew - swiped a
case of beer off our back deck!
July 12
Saturday
In Besançon
Very hot, but enjoyable day cycling around looking -
missed the citadel out this time, although noted that the dreadful little
pretend train that charged a bomb going up and down had been replaced by a
free bus service - and generally behaved like hot trippers, even to eating
ice-cream on the pavement tables of a street cafe.
Did big SM shop, then when we got it back to the
boat in rucksacks discovered they did deliveries.
