Summit Pound, Montreax Jeune to tee junc Belfort Arm and Canal du Rhône au Rhine Canal.

Reluctant to leave summit pound - canal full, neat, deep, sharp bank with full depth up to the edge, proper canal, with ample all day shade! Lots of fishermen - Sunday - no real problem! From here the canal drops very sharply into Danamarrie, to Mullhouse, and of course, into the River Rhine - "Grand Canal de Alsace". Grand Gabarit dimensions.

Went down to lock, changed departure time, cycled into town - 1 km (?) - looking for bread. S.M. closed (Sunday) and boulangerie closed for 14 days holiday! No real drama - we are not short.

Took boat on to half way along the pound - just to look! Pity to come all this way to the top and just turn back, but we haven't the power, seaworthiness, or the nerve to go down the Rhine to Strasbourg, so we decided not to tackle the last few kms to the river - 40 locks down then 40 back - and it is hot!

Country appeared to be "upland pasture". Can’t really believe that we have climbed so high in the past couple of weeks up the river - actual height difference between here and St J de L cannot be more than a few hundred feet, but French IGN (equivalent to our OS are only scaled at 1:100,0000, not 1:50,0000, and almost impossible to read contours). Anyway, since we left the river side forests, small fields, scrub, pasture and maize. Still white cows - but some other breeds seen.

Rather unwillingly started back down again - i.e. accepted end of this trip and time to turn back - mid morning, and went back out onto plain almost plateau country, dotted with clean, neat, new factories and townships, with Vosge Hills on the horizon. This has been an industrial area for a long time - there are at least 3 peniche/factory jetties along this stretch - one with a couple of men skinny dipping, and lying face down on hot concrete - what people will do to maintain their modesty - but still the area appears reasonably tidy, and not surrounded by dead rubbish.

Experienced ultimate "don’t tell the boater what is going on". LK put us into 3rd lock - open hot plain, hot as anything, closed gates behind us, and got into his van and drove off - 12.10 and lunch break is 12.30 to 1330!

Tied boat up (good thing we were descending) by centre line, took chairs, and sat in shade and started lunch. 1245 young LK on scooter arrived, frantic hurry with 2 boats ascending. Front boat - large Swiss - hooted, and LK buzzed around whilst we re-assembled ourselves on boat - in our own time, with chairs, half eaten lunch, etc, and then the LK started letting us down before we had even untied! All came right, except, to our intense pleasure, large Swiss boat stuck himself more than adequately onto mud at side of canal at lock entrance!

Out of up to summit 6 lock chain (LK operated automatics), and across the plateau/plain - burnt dried up grass and trees - to junction with Belfort arm, where we had noted that rare item on this canal - somewhere to stop.

On the canal corner, long decked jetty, with gangway to towing path. Completely shaded. but completely sheltered from breeze! Thankfully tied up, and tried to cool down, at least shaded, even if no wind

Took bikes to first lock up Belfort Embrachement, but realised from map and observation, that not very exciting on a hot Sunday, with motorway alongside, and lined with bush and trees on both sides, so came back to boat, and visited LK’s "buvette" - "drinkette" or "bar-ette".  Lovely really cold drinks under close-leafed shade trees in large garden - peaceful and quiet.

Back to boat - sky clouding over purple, and air even stiller and stickier.

Vaguely prepared boat and selves for rain, but considered it so unlikely - we’ve had previous occasions when it has done this and nothing more - that we were only just prepared in time. As before, no "cold rain-wind" blows. The heavens just opened and it poured for some time, complete with thunder, lightening, etc. Had a lot of fun trying to work out how water boatmen survive on these occasions - should think being under a rain drop would be terminal, but never actually saw. Graham suggested putting Fairy liquid in the water to see if their feet burst through the surface tension! Tried a minute amount next evening, but they’re not so stupid - just ran away from it across the water!

Went to bed on lovely cool boat!

Tee Junc Belfort Arm and Main Rhône au Rhine to pk 148.5 Colombier River Doubs and Canal du Rhône au Rhine

After last nights storm, very curious as to what next weather wise. In fact started raining quite heavily at 0800, some cooling, so that we were able to bare wet weather clothes and brollies.

Observed again, as we re-entered the valleys between the hills, change of scenery to woods and tree-ed-ed slopes.

Rain ceased, everything steamed, and heat built up.

Stopped in Montbeliard by mature lock keeper about 11.30 - tree fallen into canal 2 locks down "Canal closed?". "Oh no, but you must stop here!" But if the canal is not closed why can’t we go on?". "No, stop here, and we’ll know more this afternoon!"

Bought bread, - whole of Montbeliard closed on Mondays - ALL boulangeries closed - bread from pizza take-away - Watered up - 4 to 5 days, getting a bit worried. Water points marked on EDB between Montbeliard and summit have been summarily dismantled, so NO water between Montbeliard and Dannemarie if going through!

Moved off under eye of L.K. to go down canal and find shade - incipient hysteria, we were "supposed to wait in basin!" - but found nice lunch stop right above first lock (unmanned, of course, if all boats told to stay in Montbeliard basin, no need for a LK!) moored up, and had lunch under a shady hedge in the garden.

Everything re-started at 13.30, when LK came down, and took time to gossip and tell us what had been, and was, going on, and to ask us to await a Swiss cruiser expected at 1400. Totally reasonable - we all know what the delay is, and are quite happy!

This has, without doubt, been the problem up here - the LKs do not communicate with boaters, or with each other, so there is considerable frustration and feeling of insecurity, all round, as one waits at unmanned locks in the broiling sun for someone to turn up, who are frequently surprised to find a boat waiting.

Off we went with a little plastic Swiss cruiser, who did more than his fair share of gate pushing - good chap, most Swiss are not keen to help!

Nice run - clouded over after lunch, and much cooler, boat running cooler as well. Have been reckoning, up to now, that hot running due to canal water temperature - 78 degrees in canal, and 81 in engine! - but maybe temperature of air being ingested is also relevant.

Arrived at intended destination - formal proper mooring - steel supports and proper decking like last night’s with afternoon and evening shade - at about 1600 to find Electra - Graham and Jane - who we left at Besancon, on site. Super bug mooring, quiet, no roads or railway, and village half a mile away on other side. Apparently kids had been swimming off jetty earlier on, but all gone by time we arrived.

Settled down to do nothing, and have drinks - our turn, they entertained us at Montargis last year.

pk 148.5 Colombier to Clerval River Doubs and Canal du Rhône au Rhine

Intended to stay the day on this jetty and loaf, but realised very soon that there would be no shade at all before mid-day for us or boat, so set off, leaving Graham and Jane Electra to go over the top to the Rhine.

Untidy hot day awaiting slow locks.

Issued with computer/zapper/telecomander lock operating machine thing at second lock - most locks will still be operated - or at least supervised - by lock keepers, though, as a they clearly haven’t got the bugs out of this new super-duper system. Don’t know why they changed - old one was OK as far as we could see.

Stopped at l'Isle-sur-le-Doubs at "SuperU" for odds and ends., and having worked out that there was no-where nearer than StJ de L for gas at a place available to the canal, decided to change existing in use cylinder, even if there was the odd day’s worth left in it, as it had lasted more than it’s allotted calendar month.

Hoiked it all out, (terrible job - gas locker is used for spares, paint, water pipes, electric shore cables, spare ropes and junk as well, and it all has to come out before lifting cylinder) moored up on town key - hot, but not as breathless as S.M. key 200 metres and 1 lock down - and cycled down to arrange payment so instant change over possible on canalside. Flabbergasted to be told by cheery chap that they had no Buta propane - although they had usual supermarket rack upon rack of all gases, and there was nothing they could or would do to help - absolutely unheard of!. (There are 4 gas producing companies in France, but it is not possible to interchange fittings or cylinders! All SM retailers keep stocks of all 4 - propane and butane)

Went down to petrol station about a mile away, and assistant undertook to deliver in his lunch hour! Great chap, very talkative, and very clear in his speech! So that crisis solved. Gas was cheaper, but cost us a couple of - well spent - cold beers.

Desperately hot even on town key, which is high and airy, so cycled down for shopping and back - and for bread. Had lunch under brolly on back deck - like most moorings, there is not a vestige of shade on either town or SM quai.

Pulled out of town key for lock, and pressed wrong button on lock gadget, so that far gates opened and waited for upstream boats. Silly. None of the buttons that are supposed to correct mistakes worked, so had to wait half an hour for it to sort itself out. Rang VNF on lockside emergency speaker phone - good thing it wasn’t an emergency - no reply! Bloke arrived in van after we had got it all going again, but didn’t get out or query.

After we got going, spent entire afternoon looking for mooring. River - as opposed to canal cut - virtually all the way - some stretches very low, so even where the bank wasn’t lined with great rocks, couldn’t get anywhere near the shore at the few shady spots. Started getting a bit worried, as nearest formal mooring was Clerval, and as each trial mooring took about half an hour to try out, we were running out of time - and energy and enthusiasm.

Eventually had to give it up and make a run for Clerval, where we got in about 1830! Clerval has all facilities on finger pontoons (€7.50), so we stick right out into the river, but plugged in electricity, and got fan and charger going in quick time. Beers fizzed as consumed.

Quickly got gossiping on both sides - can hardly avoid it on these tiny jetties - windows are only 18" apart - with Swiss couple and Dutch family.

Kept fan aimed at bed and running all night!

Clerval to Lessey. River Doubs and Canal du Rhône au Rhine

Bright, sunny, but in relation to recent days, not quite so insufferably hot! Air less moist and cotton woolly.

Intended - once again - shortish day commensurate with available moorings - hopefully Baume les Dames.

Stopped for lunch exactly opposite site we overnighted at anchor tied to the tree on our way up. Put out anchor, drifted in, caught a rock, pulled a little further in!  However, couldn’t leave boat to take chairs ashore.

The river here was at least 3 metres deep from 2 metres out from edge - but the first metre out from the water’s edge is all ugly boulders- which extend up the vertical bank for 1.5 metres, with maybe 2 cms of water over them. Thus, we cannot get out to tie up, in the first place, and if we did manage it, we still couldn't get ashore in the second. This is the problem all the way up and down the Doubs - everyone bleats the same - "nowhere to stop".

Altogether, as we said last week, Baume les Dames is not a place to stop at unless in dire trouble - not quite sure why we planned to stop here. This time there were 3 boats - of the 12 to 13 metre size - moored up to the camping site pontoon, and an extra yacht stewing on the town moorings.

Spent the afternoon experimenting with mooring spots, anchors, and shallow edges, but obviously not on, so gave it up, and headed for the 25 metre pontoon we knew existed well down river at Lessey.   Meant another 1800 finish - yesterday 1830 - but no alternative.

Had assumed pontoon would be crowded - came round last corner and found it completely empty. Hurrah!! Settled down, chairs out under trees up on bank, then found only 1 beer in fridge! Ouch!

Drank wine, and to bed early.

Lessey to Novillar River Doubs and Canal du Rhône au Rhine

Steep wooded sides to the river valley, shallow river edges.

Overcast - much cooler. Wandered down gently, but as we had been joined on Nessey pontoon, and several boats had passed, expected to find Novillar full.

Empty!

Joined by rather pleasant family - parents and 2 boys - whom we had neighbored at Clerval. Lads were mad keen geologists, and charged around with goggles and rock picks, and had climbed the extremely violent cliff/hill behind Clerval in the heat!

River very quiet now - not that it has ever not been - 6 boats a day is "busy" - especially if they are all within half a day of us!

Moorings at Clerval and Isle-sur-le-Doubs both had 6 to 8 boats moored up.

Novillar to Thorais. River Doubs and Canal du Rhône au Rhine

Run down to Besancon most attractive, river widening and becoming rather grand, some paddock and maize agriculture, not much room, although hill-sides less steep.

Besancon is in a great loop of the river, and the base of the loop has been joined by a tunnel and a lock under the rock and the Citadel.

Arrived at lunch time expecting all to be closed, and we would go a third of the way round the loop, operate the DIY lock into the P. de P. and fill drinking water.

However, there was a green light at the entrance to the tunnel (lock other end, remember) so we went in. Only 140 of tunnel metres, and lock waiting.

However, no LK. Climbed up and found their hidey hole, and was assured vociferously that lock was closed for lunch hour.

Pointed out that a green light meant it was open, and if a green light is left on at the entrance to a tunnel could lead to danger - as we couldn’t go back, please put us through!

It worked - very attractive girl did the necessary, and we went on round the city on the loop and watered up at the P. de P. Rather bemused hire boat as we thrust snout under their stern to water point, and even more bemused - and rather surly - bateau mouche under whose stern we turned Albert around in 17 metres of canal width.

Went back to and tied up to the pontoon that accommodated boats - like us - that are really too long for the narrow P. de P. just short of tunnel entrance, and above river lock.

Just finished, and off shopping, when hotel boat (ex peniche) comes up through river lock, making lots noise with hooter and engine and prop. Only readable sound signal was "going right", and as that was away from us, ignored him. However, large fat lady of indeterminate Teutonic origin kept making "waving hands and arms and fingers in the air" type signals in our direction, so we watched with interest, and in view of wash normally created by peniche tied Albert up even more firmly.

Hotel peniche reversed around corner in our general direction, and ended up right alongside, whereupon Teutonic Lady dished out incomprehensible directions to all and sundry - her own skipper, VNF LK, us, spare staff hanging around, guests, and passers by in loud strident voice.

VNF LK (a more senior one than the girl), asked us to move to the JCB pontoon next door, as water depth so low peniche could not get into the wall and steps he usually used. Perfectly reasonable request, so we untied, but every time we tried to move, the peniche ran prop or bow thruster, so negating any of our maneuvers, and we just stayed put, while dear lady continued to give loud instructions. Asked her to ask her skipper to stop fiddling with his engine and thruster - just under guest deck, so after a denial that he was, then a look at the rushing mud he was churning up, she did stop him, and we pulled out and re-moored. VNF LK built temporary gang plank, and helped us across with bikes and away we went - much stimulated.

Quick ride around part of town we don’t know, bought some bread, decided against SM- it was just too far away, and we had just remembered that in the excitement we had forgotten lunch!

Back to boat, had lunch - 1500 - and went off down river, target Thorais.

Once again - hiccup at river lock _ which is completely outfitted for user controlled automatic action. Previously said charming girl was busy letting yacht through, and straight after a bateau mouche arrived (presumably they had forgotten the green light, again), so in theory she had to let him through as well. At least an hour already wasted. Strong wind blowing us around basin - particularly at exit to tunnel lock where bateau mouche was descending, so once again, she LK had to do a runner between her 2 locks, and put us through.

Now 1630, so time short to get to Thorais by 1845.

River current helped, and just made it, to find only 1 boat - Bluebottle, Australian, Freda and Ian, there, and they moved up to let us on comfortably. unfortunately, back end was next to them, so couldn’t run engine for half an hour in the evening for shower electricity.

Hi-jacked in evening after supper by couple renting LK’s cottage (only double locks on this system have resident LKs, remainder automatic, or traveling LKs). Coffee and 2 hours concentrated French, + politics - they were rightists, loathes Blair, loathed Bush even more, and disliked Shirack!

Degree of sadness at being here so soon after leaving to go up river.  It had been our intention - albeit unstated - to spend the rest of the season exploring the upper Doubs.   However, the extreme heat,   discouraged us from doing much more than look for shade, combined with a lack of practical stopping places (combination here of very low water levels, and lack of "casual" or "bush" overnighters of the Novillar, Colombier, Lessey, Deluz style)  meant life was getting to be too much of a marathon, and not enough energy left after technical boating requirements to enjoy ourselves (our daily target of 3 to 4 hours boating was forced up to 7 to 9 hours).   There are probably adequate overnighters along to route for the big fast boats, but not for us lesser mortals.

By the way - if you as a boater - are given a beautifully produced tourist pamphlet "Fluvial en Franche-Comte" produced by the Franche-Comte Tourist Board, be very careful - check all statements and claims with the greatest of care, and assume even the smallest of detail is incorrect until proved right!  Wishful thinking is prevalent here-in!

Thorais River Doubs and Canal du Rhône au Rhine

Day off - meant to take taxi to disused by historically important and well maintained disused salt works at Salle les Bains.

After innumerable telephone calls, visit to local library, etc., etc, failed, so spent day dossing, and gossiping.

Very hot and muggy getting worse.

Bluebottle pushed off for Besancon in afternoon, and we re-moored.

However, strange Dutch/German type fat yacht arrived, and asked us, slightly brusquely, to move. Quite unnecessary - of course we would have moved anyway! Beautiful deck, open cockpit, but living seemed to be carried out in windowless unventilated hold. Perhaps an ex fishing boat, or small cargo carrier. Communication difficult - no common language found.

Evening enlivened - well after dark - by about 6 youths shouting and yelling from lock surrounds (pontoon here is about 50 metres upstream from lock). Most strange - obviously drinking - they had cold boxes with them - but didn’t see any drink being consumed, didn’t see any attempt to fiddle with highly sophisticated lock gear, and no attempt even to approach the boats. Just very noisy until well after 0200! Even the one scooter had a quiet exhaust. However, it is difficult to relax, on these occasions - having boated in UK we always feel the presence of dis-organised bodies of youth in the environs of the canal where we are on it disquieting.