2004

BACK TO CALENDAR 2004

2.4, 12 to 18 July 2004.

 

 

This Weeks "We-think-we-are-here-map".  (Our estimated position at the END of the week.

 

The Map is a "thumbnail", click on it for full size whilst still connected to the web-site

 

12 July 2004  Monday to Thursday 15 July           Meaux   River Marne

Long stay in Meaux resulting from total closure of whole system on Wednesday 14th for national holiday of Bastille Day.   

Felt we didn't want to get marooned somewhere not very nice out in the bush with unmanned closed locks above and below.  As most other boaters feel the same - good moorings become scarce, and it is best to arrive mid morning 2 days before!  In fact, we were 3 days before, and still didn't get a proper pontoon mooring - in between pontoons on jetty side, dog walking alley.

Always a feeling of nervousness - brought on by boating in England - that public holidays near waterways are synonymous with lager louts behaving badly and throwing things at boats.   Totally unjustified worry - not so in France.   

On Bastille Day there are events of some sort or other, parades, demonstrations, medal giving, even fishing competitions, and of course the fireworks.   We have never seen or heard of the slightest bit of hooliganism!   The crowds at Meaux - large ones - walked to vantage points on the bridge and river banks from 2100 onwards - has to be said kids were free with their horrid bangers, but not over excited, and when asked to desist, did so.   Firework display at 2300 on largely clear night most impressive - though still difficult to beat the one we saw at Charly 2 or 3 years ago. Afterwards everyone walked gently home.

We went to our beds right in the middle of the city, and apart from "going to work traffic noise"  early next morning, slept peacefully - Meaux moorings suffer from considerable traffic noise. 

We could - and probably should - have left on Thursday morning, but were able to get a much improved spot on a pontoon, so decided to stay and see if our post arrived.

The first possible day for it to arrive was to-morrow, Friday, and most likely day next Monday.

Intended to leave for up-river, and do a return dash by rail.   Train time-tables were checked - there is a main line to Strasbourg along the river, and a "clatter bang" line follows some of the lower river loops.    

In fact, it arrived this morning - hurrah!    Tuesday night in UK to Thursday morning in France, including a major public holiday.

Carried on various boat cleaning projects - managed for the first time since beginning of last year to get upper sides looking reasonable, and also cleared as much as possible of below water weed off.   She was cleaned and blacked in February, but it seems that St J de L basin host to a singularly vigorous underwater weed.

 

16 July 2004,     Friday                 Meaux to Mary S/ Marne    River Marne

Lovely to be off again even though we couldn't get moving before 1030.

Gentle run in nice weather through forest, fields, farm land, to pontoon below hotel and restaurant at Mary.   Had it to ourselves - just as well - we hang over both ends, by ourselves.

Really enjoyed this run, lots to look at and comment on, especially as previous trips through this area have been gloomy passages through dripping trees, but this time the morale benefit of cool sunshine was once again proved.

Out with the chairs, into the shade of the trees, and both fell asleep. 

 

17 July 2004      Saturday.            Mary S/ Marne to Courteron 9,   River Marne

More of the same as yesterday - gentle bimbling up river enjoying cool weather, except for mid-day and afternoon winds that seem to be a feature of this year's weather.

We had intended to stay the night on the pontoons in La Ferte - sous- Jouarre, and have a look at the war memorials at the bottom of town.

However, it was Saturday early afternoon, and the moorings were absolutely full and deathly silent.   Boats of all shapes and sizes - including 2 or 3 large ones that should have gone to the large boat moorings - and nationalities tied and breasted up, watching sport on TV.   (presumably)

Went on to next lock - Courteron 9, miles out in the country, where we had previously noted there was a long waiting jetty above the lock itself.  There was, and exactly the right wall height for Albert - but perennial problem - lock situated in open grassland with no shade!

However, cant have everything, happiness was the entire length and area totally to ourselves, secure mooring, and completely quiet.   There weren't even any boats through the lock - so it is still a mystery where all the TV watchers came from and went to.

The only downside was a threatening storm, and strong winds, that precluded bicycle mounted adventures.

 

18 July 2004     Sunday                Courteron 9,  to Charly       River Marne

.Grey and cool again.

Countryside still forest and cereal farmland, with high and thick trees along river bank.

At Merry Lock a genial L.K. summoned us with the standard hand signal for ship's papers (draw a rectangle in the air with one or both forefingers) up to his eyre, with no other indication of what he wanted.

In fact, since our last run through here all the locks up to Epinay - i.e. all the big river locks on the Marne from Charly - have been automated with the latest in zapper technology, and we were to be issued - and instructed if necessary - with and about our zapper.

Nice gossip - no boats, so no hurry, and on we went.

Suddenly we turned a corner and were into vineyard country.   This is the very edge of champagne country, and doesn't even rate a mention in Duijker's "Wine Atlas of France".

However, the Countryside is really superb this year - all the rain has ensured everywhere - formal planting or natural country- is still green.  None of the dried up dusty desert like conditions of the last 2 years from end of June onwards.   Even the wild flowers in natural meadows are coming round again, and all the riverside trees have atractive lighter coloured growing tips on their branch shoots. 

The vineyards are at their picturesque best.   Leaves are full and evenly dark green, rows trimmed up, and top shoots trimmed back, so emphasising the neatness of the whole cultivation process.   It is fascinating to see, where so often large areas of vineyard have been planted up in small contiguous plots - presumably by a multitude of individual owners, each one - being French - has planted to a slightly different row line from his neighbour, so delineating each of the plots.   Makes for a most atractive sight.

Cameras, of course, went wild, and we now have countless shots of vineyards.

Through Charly lock, to long jetty we have stopped at before, with a S.M. just up the road.

Were horrified to see a complete forest of fishing rods sticking out over the river.    There seemed to be dozens of fishermen, and each one has at least 4 rods deployed.

Crept into one end just in front of an enormous green Dutch Barge sort of thing, greatly fearing, but there was about 15 metres clear, and we hoped we could stretch it a bit.   Fisherman perfectly calm, removed his stuff from the bollard we wanted, and indicated that we should get on with our mooring up, so he could get on with his fishing!

Found that jetty is, in fact, officially a "halte nautique" so boats have priority, but the fishermen don't tell anyone that, and naturally any notices saying so are removed  When a boat hovers off wanting to come in - not easy hovering safely in a howling gale and driving rain which like most afternoons had developed - and faced with a forest of fishing rods.  Fishermen try, with body language, but not with any overt signals or vocal "expressions", to persuade boater that he must "go away".   If boater insists - and whatever the rights of the situation may be, it is intimidating - a great deal of back chat occurs among all the fishermen at the expense of he or they that are fishing right on the spot where the boat is coming in.   He or they move up, and all the others re-arrange themselves.  We even saw fishermen taking boat's lines, so it appeared to be an ongoing good humoured game, with the winner being he who could remain fishing for longest without moving.

Quiet evening - after they had all gone, and pleasant night.   Tried a short cycle ride, bit wind too strong.

 

Pictures.

1...Tight moorings in Meaux.

2.  Don't store 5l boxes of wine in a wet locker

3.  Up river a little.

4.  Overnighter tranquility (Courteron)

5.  Vineyards.