2004

BACK TO CALENDAR 2004

2.9   16 to 22 August 2004

(Last and proper updating on 26 August 2004 )

 

 

This Weeks "We-think-we-are-here-map".  (Our estimated position at the END of the week.

 

 

The Map is a "thumbnail", click on it for full size whilst still connected to the web-site

 

16 August 2004   Monday      Saarbrucken to Dillingen, ,  River Saar.                (In Germany)

Having reached Saarbrucken - i.e. "Foreign Parts" - committee meeting.   Factors Affecting :- Flat Sale, end of summer looming, and distinct change to cool in the weather.  But we haven't really done or seen anything much new this year.   The "big adventure" - after satisfying family commitments - was to go across from Vitry to Toul, then down the Moselle from Nancy/Frouard, through the edge of Luxembourg, and a corner of Germany,, and come back to Nancy via the C. Marne a Rhine.  We've now done the first, or easy part.   But the second part was scuppered by a large boat that went through the gates of Blenod lock - Pont au Moussons - without waiting for them to open.  "Sorry officer, my foot slipped on the accelerator pedal".

However, we heard yesterday from an English couple - "Shell" we call her, an ex bunker boat - met the boat 3 years ago on the Canal de l'Est, but she's got "multi-owners" - that traffic is being allowed through "slowly".

A majority of 2 decided that we would give it a go - descend the Saar to Kronz, with the intention of going up the Moselle - i.e. the original intention in reverse - the less desirable route, as there is more against the current motoring up the Moselle than there is up the Saar.

So off we went down river, leaving at a smart 0830, past the incredible graffiti opposite town pleasure park.   What on earth does it all mean - so skillfully done, often positively artistic, but usually spiky and angry.   Everywhere - both here and in France - is covered.   Quite important notices obliterated, and pleasant places made hideous.

Last night's cycle exploration had found a bakery, so we stopped at the town key - on a trip boat mooring, actually, and while morning boat cleaning operations continued, Herself tripped off into town for bread, finding also a veg market where last night's gig was.

Replete, we headed for the unknown of "grand Gabarit" (Full size dimensions of locks and waterways for "Class iv Traffic".   I'll look that up, but basically I think it means boats 111 metres long, 9.5 wide, and 2000 tons +)

Couldn't have been quieter.   Waterway relatively narrow - some corners really quite horrid, but not a boat moving accept Albert, and a white cruiser in the distance.

First lock covered in red and white lights, but no green ones.  Top 2 locks are singles - i.e. full size chambers only.   Balance further on down-river are doubles, with small locks for the likes of us.

Waited a bit, in the customary polite fashion on these occasions, then tied up, and trotted off on foot, found a gent with who communication was almost nil, but understood 20 minutes, and in exactly 20 minutes green light on.   But had to wait another 20 minutes for arrival of white cruiser, crept in as though they were going to be eaten, and knitted themselves securely to lock wall.

Down, through, and out in normal fashion, but having started at 0830, it was 1100 by the time we got out after only 4 or 5 kms!

Then weather broke - first steady rain, which the bimini largely protected us from, then very strong gusts forcing bimini dropping drill, and brolley opening.   First time this year.

Felt like 2 or 3 days of this, countryside totally industrial - largely apparently abandoned industrial, this and rain combination did not encourage us to aprove of last night's decision.

After 16 kms, second lock hove - almost - into view, obscured by rain.   Appeared from 1.5 kms back, to have white cruiser in and gate open.   Then gate shut and panic ensued.   Set yellow flashing light (the-we-are-here-look-out-light on Albert's front cabin roof that is really meant for tractors and abnormal loads), long pause while white cruiser didn't go down, but gates didn't open.

Finally gates re-opened and in and down we went!

Weather, to some extent improved, and country side changed from complete dereliction to mine tips scrubby growing grass and bush, and far away in the distance, to the north, as the weather cleared, farmland.

Noted fishermen just as cheerful as French ones.   What IS wrong with the Brits??

Language:   this is the first time in our lives (including various parts of Africa) where neither of us has had the remotest understanding of the local language, and where very few locals understand us.   It is truely traumatic.   It is also the first time we have met the slightly discourteous abrupt turning away and ignoring us that seems to be the normal reaction of locals when they find they find that we cannot speak to them in their language!

After some 36 kms - fastish downstream - about 1530, welcome site of Dillingen Yacht Haven.  Call VHF 77 says a notice.   Did, but no answer!   Entered - very full.

Little man appeared and enthusiastically directed us onwards inside, and eventually put us on a good all alongside mooring.   14.00€ Most satisfactory for night with water,  Electricity was .50 cents - not centimes in Germany - in the slot for 1 Kw.   What does"1 Kw" mean?   an hour,  max draw?  Too difficult.  It made charger make funny buzzing noises, and charge far higher than ever before, so used it for mains devices on the boat - kettle and computer - only, batteries in good fettle anyway.  

Moorings were just the river's width from a very busy motor way - noise horrendous - all heavy lorries.

However, managed cycle ride around the lakes on our side - old gravel pit country? - and had a quick look at outskirts of Dillingen.   Even local traffic fast and heavy, and not nearly so forgiving as France!

Went back to boat - supper cycle tracks, concrete and well used.   Even in the worst of yesterday's rain could see cyclists braving it.   The only thing is, locals whose houses are adjacent use their cars on it.   Nominal speed limit 10 kmh.  Frightening.

In fact, life in Germany, for this the first day, was a touch frightening all round, but morale is high - if it's not fun, we'll stop doing it.

 

17 August 2004   Tuesday         Dillingen, to Metlach Lock,           River Saar            (In Germany)

Tickled ourselves out of Dillingen Water Sports Club at 0830 - Harbour Master rang lock for us, and it was straight in, down, and through.   Mighty deep locks, these.

Country loosing it's down at heals industrial look, and beginning to be rather nice.

Weather started very misty, then cleared, but overcast, and by afternoon fairly intensive showers.

After setting off, country opened up to more farming, and we soon entered a gorge; countryside became very nice indeed - steep sided valley, heavily forested - almost Swiss, in places, with little meadows, couldn't be more different to yesterday.   The river course from here on is crazy - twisting, turning, and doubling back on itself.   This stretch is a long pull northwest, then right back in the next valley to the South East, then turn again North East, North West to Metlach (The ch is pronounced is in the Scottish Loch).   The narrow blind bends ends all have notices telling the peniches they may'nt pass each other, but must keep their radios open on a given wave-length.

Just above Dillingen Lock, saw a little pontoon jetty tucked away out of the line of getting bumped by the wash from the many middling to small boats, who all go at top speed regardless of consumption of fuel and good manners.   They really are dreadful - especially hotel and trip boats, and the larger private cruisers.   The best and quietest are the 2000 ton, 111 metre working barges!

Moored up, initially for lunch.  Concrete or hardened dirt tow/cycle paths on both sides of river busy with unending stream of cyclists.

One idiotic one suggested that a very pretty walk, with superb views was a 2 to 3 km cycle  back, and climb  up to the little building we had seen from the boat way up in the tops of the forest hillside.

Bikes out - go and have a look anyway.   Lovely run - very hard dirt like laterite or murram.   At foot of said path, long committee meeting.   "lets go a little way up" and see.

Inevitable - climbed to the top - slightly dull climbing walk, but lovely broadleaved - mostly oak - forest, and fantastic views of the incredibly tortured route of the river from the top.   Hard work, but worth it.   On arrival at the top heavens opened, photography was difficult, and we got wet, and questions of the nature "did you put plastic bags on the bike seats", and "did you put the rear boat cover on" were asked.

Whilst awaiting cessation of rain, string of people with brolleies and clean shoes kept arriving to look at view.   Obviously hadn't climbed path.   Looked round back of building - full scale concrete cycle path, and probably car track came up other side of hill.

Never mind, a very pleasant afternoon's "adventure", and it was nice to get to the bottom and find no one had pinched our bikes, and a pleasant quiet evening on Albert beckoned.

What a lovely and valueble forest that will be, if there are really as many oaks as appeared, and if they are permitted to grow to maturity.

Were joined on the pontoon by 2 boats - but both dead quiet, both Germans (although 1 flew a Dutch flag) and whilst good for gossip, we all - as always - did our own thing.

18 August 2004   Wednesday      Metlach Lock to Kronz     Rivers Saar and Moselle.   (In Germany)

Up betimes, to get boat sorted, and then into Metlach for bread. (had managed to understand from a passerby yesterday that there was a bakery in Metlach - this language/communication is quite ridiculous, we cant even tell if the sign that is strapped to the gate of our mooring says "Private Boaters", or "Brits keep out", "trip boats only", or "this mooring is by courtesy of the people of Metlach".

Managed bread, but upon return to boat, next door asked where we were going, and if we knew the lock at Blenod was closed.   Assured him that we "knew" it was open, for slow traffic.   He says that has been countermanded, lock will close definitely at the end of August.   Rang them then and there - slightly impacient lady - definitive total closure on 26th or 27th August.

Yet another committee meeting, with books, calculators, etc.

Yes, we'll have to move it - no trekking over Roman Remaine in Trieve (sliver lining??) but we should be able to get through, igf goal posts remain stationary, so on we go - with throttle set a bit higher.

Try to call up first lock - no reply.   Get German friends to try - no reply!   Take boat over, and walked up.  Very pleasant gent with good English in real hi tech cabin - reckon he could have landed a 747 with ease - appologised for not answering (taking a delivery) and not seeing us.   Set lock and lights there and then, tested VHF, and by the time ground level (the cabins are away up in the gods) wad re-achieved Albert was happily chuntering into the lock under control of Herself.

Down and away, through township, and past the 3 trip boats that completely monopolised the town quai - bloody things go much to fast, are much too arrogant and were born before manners were thought of.   All yesterday, pounding up every 20 minutes through the lock and the gorge and back again as though the devil was after them.

Very pleasant run, except felt we had to eschew a formal lunch stop, and eat on the hoof, and try and get beyond Saarburg and at least to the confluence of the 2 rivers.   Most impressed with Saarburg - beautiful village in the aproved German tradition.   The P de P shown in the book dids exist, but not where shown, and being early in the afternboon, passed it by.

Out onto the Moselle, and luckily found a Yacht Club just there about .5 km down.   Pulled in to a pontoon outside, and masterful woman told me where to go - which I misunderstood - German poor - and took Albert, in strong - really strong - crosswind, and got him moored up all amongst the shiny cruisers on their pontoons - with difficulty and relief and without hitting anyone - although did frighten one.

14.00€ but that seems to be the form - got electricity, water, and an impregnable ring fence thrown in.   Right by rly line and motor way!    They don't seem to mind, though!

 

19 August 2004   Thursday           Kronz to Besch,     Rivers  Moselle   (In Luxembourg)

Off at 0700, to find we had been "done" out of our key deposit.   Promised faithfully last night it would refund at 0700, but not a soul about - and no sign of one ever being about at that time of day!   Imagine the racket is to get a new key cut - €3.00.  Then pocket the rest of my €15.00.

Anyway - off we went, finally, at 0745, full of enthusiasm and early morning sleepiness

Did some careful timings of average speed achieved over the ground, in very strong head wind, and difficult to judge current.   Point being, we've got to get to and through Blenod at Pont a Mousons by Thursday next.  They say - or one of the VNF guys does, each of the rest says differently - that that is when the lock will be fully and finally closed for permanent repair work,  With luck, arithmetic OK, so on we go.   We had been prepared to turn back, if arithmetic had been wrong - and we may still have to if VNF have it wrong.

River is big, and like big rivers, impersonal.   There is a steady stream - only 4 or 5 a day, but they are so big each one is a major event - of "super peniches".   111 metres long, 9.5 wide, and carry over 2000 tonnes.   They are ships - not boats - and the driver sits in an airline type pilot's chair behind tinted glass with at least one car and private run-about boat on the back.

The have superb manners, know everything that is going on, drive to an inch, and it's great watching them into and out of locks   The main locks here "grand gabarit", i.e.  170 or 190 metres by 12 metres, so Albert is permitted - encouraged - to share with one of them quite comfortably.   The wretched trip boats also just fit in with them - clever planning..

6 kms up we left Germany on our right side (rive gauche, technically), and it becomes Luxembourg.   Suddenly everything is incredibly clean and tidy on that side.   Germany is still opposite.

We also entered the vine growing area, and the countryside and views are really stunning.   Practically the whole of the he Luxembourg side was planted up, but a relatively small amount of German.  We gather that at one time it was almost solid vineyard right up to Luxembourg itself, but a lot have been ripped out for "development", and only the stretch along the bank of the Moselle remains. The planting and maintenance is immaculate, slopes look far too steep for machinery, so presumably all work is hand work, and just like when visiting tea estates - although one knows there are hundreds of workers beavering away, you never actually see one at it. Before even beginning planting all permanent works are completed to the highest standard - aesthetic as well as practical - i.e. drains, roads, wire supports and retaining walls.

It was a real joy going through this area, and when the sun was out, so we saw it at probably the best time of year, at it's best.   The only sadness was that we had to get on - although even if we had wanted to stop, there are very few safe places anywhere on the Moselle to moor up.   It was also a  pity that, although the weather was sunny in the afternoon, the morning was overcast and bitterly cold with us facing into the strong south wind.   Anyway, the cameras worked overtime, all day.

Apart from the handsomeness of the vineyards, the little towns and villages were lovely as well, as though they the pack them away at night into boxes of cotton-wool, and take them out in the morning and dust them off, before putting them back into position.

We had planned to try and make Besch, - 37 kms against wind - strong - and current - light.   To our amazement, we made it by 1515 - no lunch stop, though.   It has not been our custom in the last year or 2 to motor for as long as that - 0745 to 1515 - and we always stop for lunch.  No choice here, really, there are just no casual mooring spots, and although the peniches are very careful, they move so much water that inevitably they bump one, whilst trip and hotel boats should be quietly and painfully put down.  No consideration whatsoever.

Very pleasant welcome at the "Port de Plaisance of the Motor Yacht Club of Luxembourg".   Albert behaved well - turning sharp corners in a very strong and gusty from everywhere wind, and fetching up where directed with no screaming in reverse, or shouting from crew. Harbour Master took ropes and "helped", but like almost everyone who takes our rope they dash forward with it, and tie it to a bollard away ahead of us, where it serves absolutely no purpose.   Take the rope back well behind the bows, tie it securely to a bollard or ring (or tree), or hold it after taking at least one turn round said holdfast, and we can drive into it, straighten up, and look positively professional!

Like all the moorings up and down the Saar and Moselle - price high - €14.00 plus - but bread laid on, water laid on, and joys, diesel ay €0.75 per litre proper pump on jetty.   BUT, be warned, there is a "tax" of 1.9% on plastic cards.   Wasn't sure if this was local enterprise, a law, or what - but the sum total to us was €1.86 on 115 litres at on .75 of French cost, and .50 of English.   Thought one could buy red disel in Luxembourg, but apparently not.

The wind which had varied during the day from strong to very strong, finally died awayin the evening to be replaced by heavy and continuous rain.

 

20 August 2004   Friday                Besch, to Thionville     Rivers  Moselle   (Luxembourg to France)

Cold grey start - yesterday's strong against us wind was already blowing before we started at 0800, and it rained off and on for most of the day.   Very cold - geurnseys and winter underware.   Both suffering from some form of stomach upset - Herself really quite bad - so we left short on sleep, and feeling we were not quite so keen on boating as usual.

Had arranged to buy a Luxenbourg courtesy flag from the capitainerie last night, not realising that there were only 4 kms of Luxembourg left.  So we didn't.   On entry to Luxembourg had quietly removed completely our slightly naff little flagstaff altogether.

Rather sad to leave Luxembourg.   Very expensive, there were no shops at or near the P. de P. because everyone went over to Germany to do their shopping, but it is lovely place.

One of their claims to fame of this section is their river lock system.   Alongside the main ship lock is a little one 18 metres long by 3.40.   Ideal Albert size.   These are DIY, which, of course, we didn't know how, so made idiots of ourselves at the first one, bleating on the VHF asking for lights, etc.   Once clear on what to do, they are very simple, and totally automatic when the relevant button is pushed.  One problem is that unless one is prepared to climb up and down the lock side ladder - very high, vertical, and slippery, there is no way of doing them single handed.   Another problem to be watched - there are very strong strange currents at the spot one has to tie the boat up to get off and work the lock.   

The countryside, once we were back in France, was dull and monotonous - scrub, woods, and caravan parks.   This opinion was biased by the fact that it was raining and blowing, and we were - because we are travelling almost due south - seeing everything "upsun".   Looking back, in the few minutes of sunlight allowed us, it could have been a rather lovely run.

Again, lunch on the hoof - although we were well up to time.

We had decided to stay over in the advertised P de P in Thionville, with a hopeful back up of the lock wall just above the Thionville locks.   On arrival the so-called P de P was a disaster - actually underneath a railway bridge, over which a motorway ran!   It was grey, seedy, and some little grubby noddy boats (the section of river just above Thionville is a ski area - not very savoury looking water) but no proper pontoons or jetties - just a huddle.

Went direct up to the locks - 2 of them side by side, one full sized grand gabarit, the other Freycinet.   No lights or arrows on the smaller - called the L.K. and was told firmly not the small lock!   Went up the big one - little Albert 15 metres long in 170 metres of lock - and hopefully turned hard left at the end of the lead in wall above the top gates.   There was quite a big basin in the old collecting pen for the Freycinet lock - now very obviously seen from here not in service - and around the edge at the entrance end were parked about 8 peniches in various states of disrepair, or in service, but gone on holiday.   Further down was line of ski boats and a few small cruisers moored bows on against rather rickety steel finger jetties.   On the other side of the basin was a concrete capped sheet piling wall, with 2 or 3 large private boats, and at least 3 gaps into which Albert could fit.   So in we went - mighty relieved!   There is no-where that we can see above here for a long way that we could overnight in.

The mooring was good - quiet, no visitors, and no currents or bow waves.   Not very beautiful, but probably within bicycle reach of shops.    We didn't try - after last night's efforts, and a long slightly dull day, all we wanted was to collapse.   We did, and the rain set in once again seriously!

 

21 August 2004   Saturday      Thionville to Metz                      River  Moselle

Dull, overcast, rain.

Altogether a very dull run through industrial or vast areas of wasteland and abandoned industrial areas, gravel pits, and old river ports.

For the first time on this run, on arrival at Metz we were directed to and used the slightly over Freycinet sized "small" lock lying beside the big main lock, rather than the main lock itself.   Almost all of the other locks in France on the Moselle have these - certainly from Metz on down - , and all have appear to have been abandoned!

Great relief when we reached Metz, and pulled into the P de P down it's long entry canal/river offshoot, in the rain, after a filthy day   Mostly far too short finger pontoons, or poles and a jetty to moor to bows or stern on.   But still a splendid location, and very quiet.

Wet evening enjoyably enlivened by a splendid and most imaginative show of music to water.  Difficult to describe - certainly like nothing we have ever seen.  Water jets and fountains, varied continuously as to size, shape, strength, or direction (even did one like a tulip wine glass) , and lit with a variety of different coloured concealed lights, all changing continuously to a variety of different music into beautiful patterns and sequences.  Very skillful and imaginative engineering.

Wandered briefly around Metz, but being Saturday evening, it was very full and busy.   Most streets seemed to be pedestrianised, and everywhere the only bikes to be seen were ours.   Got the impression Metz doesn't approve of bicycles.

Nevertheless enjoyed our wander round - although brief.

 

22 August 2004   Sunday      Metz to Pont a Mousson           River Moselle

Set off in quite thick mist - but felt we could see adequately.   Started getting worried, as mist failed to lift - as to whether others would see us, so rigged nav lights, and set yellow orange flashing beacon going.   Once we had set off and were committed, that perhaps we were a little irresponsible to be on the water at all - even though a Sunday.   Looked seriously for suitable stopping place, but as usual on rivers - nothing.   Mist cleared to wind and overcast at about 10.00 and the faster boats moored up in the marina at Metz last night started catching us up

Our reason for going was that - in relation to other river traffic - we are so slow we have to allow a long day's worth of time to cover what some of the big stinkers do in an afternoon. The arithmetic - all the way up from Konz - has been 9 minutes for a km, with the engine temp totally steady on 80 degrees..   Enormous help to navigation are the very large sign boards erected on the bank showing the P.K. (Point Kilometre).   This speed has been totally satisfactory, to us, even though we have the pressure of getting through Blenod in time.   Plenty of time for the "oh looks", the "oohs and ahs" of nice views, and, of course, the incessant photography.

To-day, though, we seem to be taking 11 minutes to complete 1 km.   The river is narrower, and current more visible.  

Also discovered - or rediscovered - that we might have an incipient weed problem (lots of weed on river edges, where we are inclined navigate looking for less against-us currents when going upstream), with small bits on the prop or trailing on the rudder not actually changing engine or prop notes or other external effects, but reducing efficiency and slowing us fractionally.   Previous practice of fairly fierce reverse and forward gear changes twice changed to one long run in reverse, sufficient to change direction of trailing weed flow back into prop to chop it up.   i.e. - stop trying to shake it off - drag it off or chop it up!

Weather kept changing, turned fine in afternoon and evening, and latter end of run very pleasant, even though - as said before, we were looking "up-sun"..   River valley opening out with farmland, woods and forests replacing largely decaying industrialisation so extant since Thionville day before yesterday.  (Not, however, the big power stations - anything but decaying)..   Enjoyed the site of the remains of the enormous Roman Aqueduct near Ancy, but apart from being heavily overshadowed on our, or the river side, by telegraph, electric, and railway power cables, there was no-where to stop on that side of the river, and even if there was, the railway line - electric - probably would have barred us.   If ever up here in car, must go and see.   Noticeable that the isolated abutment was completely scaffolded, sheethed,  and roofed - presumably for repair and maintenance.

Got to Pont a Mousson about 1500, bypassed pontoons right in centre of town under main road bridge and went up to large blue "P" on bank on little embrochement leading to VNF HQ just above town on the right facing upstream (rive gauche technically).

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