2004

BACK TO CALENDAR 2004

3.1  30 Aug to 5 Sep 2004

 

This Weeks "We-think-we-are-here-map".  (Our estimated position at the END of the week.

 

 

The Map is a "thumbnail", click on it for full size whilst still connected to the web-site

30 August 2004    Monday            Forges d'Uzemain  to Fontenoy le Chateau      Canal des Vosges

Woke to dark morning, pouring with rain.

Actually woken by sound thought was goods train, except no railway within anything closer than an expensive taxi ride.

Turned out to be some sort of heater or water heater on outside of breasted up boats.   Ridiculous noise at 0705 when on close moorings.   Felt vaguely sympathetic for the inside boat, but also a European, although a different sort.   Anyway, they packed it in at 0730 - but really, Sunday, of all days!

At 0900, having breakfasted, and realised any work on outside of boat impossible due to rain, started engine, untied, and left.   Outside boat had been busy doing same thing for some 20 minutes.

Shot off to lock, but then saw he was going back upstream towards Girancourt, so no sharing.   Much pleased to see that he was still gilling about outside his lock - semi automatic LK controlled  (if last evening was anything to go by, LK had a major hangover, anyway) whilst we met our first - and only student of the day carrying a big grin on the downstream manual.  (the grin was on his face - he was a friendly guy!) It was his last day before going back to school next week.    In fact, we saw, at the most, no more than 2 others during the day, and presume they had already finished.   End of August is normal finish time - indeed season stops with a sudden jolt - holidays and summer are no more.

Students have done a  a good job this year, where-ever on the system we met them.   Act well to-gether.

Rain, drizzle, fine, off and on all day.

Found several spots canalside marked with the blue "moorings here" posts.   One, between 20 and 21 is complete with very nice looking long pontoon. Great.  The others - be aware, they are actually where the peniches waited to go through locks or round blind corners, and big rings were sunk in concrete to hold them.    The canal bank has long since rotted and fallen, so that the edge is very shallow and lined with large ugly rocks just below water level.   We reckon that when one sees large peniche type mooring rings, unless they are clearly on a proper jetty, be very careful.  Of all the places on the canalbank it is possible to moor, that is not one.  Not ever!

Lunch on the jetty at Hautmoegey - as the book says, it is a bit shallow, but if you've got children, there are plastic slides and similar rubbish for them to play on.  There is also a restaurant.

Still in off and on rain - down into automatics, and eventually to Fontenoy le Chateau.

Never been very fond of the place - always seemed to be full of Brits telling you how you should do things.

 occupied by boats just dumped and left.  Also, no one comes and collects fees and stays for a friendly gossip - one is instructed (abrupt notice on notice board amongst gipsy vans)  to parade at or between certain specified hours at Crown Blue Line office.

On arrival "helped" to moor up by the ultimate disaster of idiotically unhelpful assistance from a nondescript boat next to where we wanted to come in.   Took rope from Herself, then completely ignored requests, direction, handsignals, and prayers, and did his best to direct and pull us into the back of his nasty little boat.

Subsequently transpired, when shambles had been sorted out and tempers restowed, that (a) he knew no commonly used European language (although his boat flies Swiss flag), (b) he knows and has done relatively little boating, and (C) he is stone (and I mean "utterly") deaf anyway.   Sure he was, in fact, a splendid fellow - but hope he keeps being splendid well away from us, our boat, and particularly our mooring lines for a very long time.

Meantime, moorings filled up, until virtually everyone was doubled up!   No - not us - perhaps they are scared of us!?!

As they came in, startled to see large white German cruiser - he of the noisy heater -  that we last saw trying to climb through the semi-automatic lock upstream of Forges d'Uzemain moorings this morning in the rain, drifting in with the rest, having come a long way downstream.   Would love to know, where and why did he actually turn round - was he lost, had his wife sneakily turned his boat round to face the other way when he wasn't looking in the hope of going home, or had he finally given up all hope of raising the hung-over LK where he was aiming, and decided any lock - regardless of orientation - would do   Will never know!

Short cycle ride in evening, and strolled around harbour, but a bit inhibited by having to trek in amongst gipsies' vans, sattelite dishes, and dogs.

 

31 August 2004    Tuesday        Fontenoy le Chateau   to Basse Vaivre     Canal des Vosges

Up to a beautiful morning - cold and clear, but cloud already building.

Canal level, since the summit, has been lower in relation to it's bottom - than we have been used to  this summer, and Albert's propellor has started the rattling game it rejoiced in so much last year.

Took it very easily - glad to be out of Fontenoy.

Although almost the whole of this section from the summit to Corre on the Saone is through thick forest - there is still plenty to look at and enjoy, and the forest does not seem to overshadow or intimidate the boater - it is pleasant, and frequently pretty!

Regretfully, not a single commercial seen - first time for us - and far fewer Dutch and German.  The canal got a thoroughly bad name - well deserved at the time, but no longer - over the last 3 years for shallowness, sudden stoppages through water shortages, and doubtful public relations.   The commercials deserted it for the Marne a la Saone, and most privates took to avoiding it if they could, going the same way.

However, improvements this year, and even greater improvements promised for next year (part visible now).  Would be most interested to know how they handle boats after 1 September this week when the students go off.   This has been their downfall in the past (their travelling lock keeper system has been neither a system, nor noticeable for travelling), but maybe they have learnt.

Tied up at mooring we always know as the "Jolly Germans" at Basse Vaivre .   It is a long concrete or stoned jetty bank, by a big area - +/- 2 or 3 acres - of level grass.   Imagine it must have been a major loading jetty for peniches, but all except the actual loading area and jetty have been absorbed by forest. 5 years ago, our first experience of mooring here, we were joined by a large hire boat that disgorged lots of men.   They had themselves a BBQ, then sat at the picnic table till all hours of the night and sang - beautifully - and I mean really well - not drunken shouting - practised close harmonies, and no repeats.

Couploe of fishermen, but otherwise totally quiet. 

 

1 September 2004    Wednesday           Basse Vaivre     Canal des Vosges to Jussey,   Petits Saone

Glorious day - sunshine all day without cease.

Really wandered - well known route to us.

Interesting emerging from Canal at Corre onto river how suddenly country changes from forest to open rolling countryside, mixed farming, and woods and copses with still some forest on the higher ground.   Very pleasant.

Stopped for lunch at spot where we called the the Sappeaurs and Pompiers out last year at 0300 when the level dropped feet in a few minutes and we were stood on our side.  (and I fell in)   Cannot think how we fitted in - river side must have silted up over the winter and this summer.

Stopped for night at Jussey - this must be the 6th or 7th time we've stopped here, but it's nice spot, safe, and familiar.   For the first time we met several locals - it is a private plot and chalet area for fishermen staying for a couple of weeks.  Jussey itself, quite some way from the river, seems very upmarket.   One lady stated that she remembered and recognised us!   Ouch - possibly.

As with all rivers, informal stopping places are difficult, and once one has been found, one is inclined to go back again and again.   

Joyfully, crop over the river this year is grazing, so one can see the trains - last year it was mealies!

Sat out afternoon and evening in the sun - first time for weeks.

Countryside pleasant flattish riverine farming land - hilltops forest, lots of woods and cops, but in general mixed farming, with - unusually for this time of year I would have thought - a heavy second cut of hay/sileage being taken from a lot of the meadowland.   The view - frequent - of fresh ploughland completely surrounded by lush grassland is unusual at any time of year - and is extraordinarily atractive.

 

2 September 2004    Thursday             Jussey to Port sur Saone,   Petite Saone

A lazy day, just wandering downstream being thoroughly nostalgic about all the places we know so well on this part of the river.

Beautiful day, warm, sunny, not too hot!  Scenery superb - as yesterday, gently rolling mixed farming and forest in gently rolling wide river valley.

Shared lunch picnic on river side field with a group of rather nice horses - sort of Palamino coloured.   Pretty and friendly.    

After lunch Herself decided that she would do the lock activator,  went ashore in the lock, pulled the blue rod most skillfully, and the got distracted, failed to get back on the boat straight away, gates closed, and level started dropping fast.   Level dropped below jumping back onboard level.   

Two alternatives - wait while lock empties, take boat out, re-enter and go back up, get on boat, and in in due course re-enter lock yet again from above and re-drop,   or climb down slimy lock wall ladder quickly before boat gets any lower down.    Chose latter!

Moored up in Port Sur Saone town for a bit of shopping and to pay telephone bill.

Don't really like staying on the town jetty - hot, red, pave blocks or tarmac - hot and featureless,  noisy and totally unprivate,  There is a row of houses on the other side of the road along the moorings, and although this has now being blocked off - residents have an electronic pass to get their cars through to their houses - it is still noisy.   Also they charge 4 Euros - for nothing - there is neither water nor electricity available!

Pushed on through to the undertrees mooring we stopped at last year at this time in the intense, heat about 3 kms out of Port sur Saone.   As we puttered past the P.de P. shrieks.   Pauline and Derek of Compain  last seen in the spring on the Digoin to Roanne were moored up there.   Most appalling luck - their engine, a Thornycroft, broke down 10 weeks ago, and they cannot get the necessary spares.   One wonders - and questions - what goes on - Thornycroft are a thoroughly well know and respected outfit - one thought - why no spares?

Gossiped furiously all the way down the lock cut, and through the lock, to the confusion of a large hire boat that was sharing with us, manned by Germans who wanted to do it in a militarily correct manner!

On to intended mooring, but either it had shrunk, or we had grown as we couldn't get in.   Found another spot - nice and shady and cool, but with bows out in river, trimmed bush, and settled down.

 

3 September 2004    Friday                       Port sur Saone to Soing sur Saone,   Petite Saone

Much as yesterday, bright hot sunshine, lovely countryside - what more could we want?  Yet more nostalgia!

Had lunch at our most used mooring at the "cattle drinking place".   Under trees, deep right up to the bank, trees at exact spot most suitable for tieing Albert up.

Set off again with iontention of doubling back after barrage at Soing to town mooring, but then realised it was Friday.  Least favourite night for unproven security on unknown town moorings, more so we had to come 2 to 3 kms back to the mooring up the original river course, and then if it was inappropriate we would have to re-trace the 2 to 3 kms.

Found the big high steel jetty on the main river bank just above the lock empty, so took it over, found shade alongside.   Within 2 kms of lunch stop - we could actually see it across the fields - but settled down for lazy afternoon and night.

Cycled into Soing, we had never stopped here before, and were most impressed.   Nice large village/town mini super market, boulangerie, etc.  The advertised mooring jetty down on the river is great.   All facilities (3 Euros into box s.v.p.!), set on the edge of a big expanse - several acres - of well mown grass with trees, part of which doubles as a play ground - but was dead quiet when we were there - and a restaurant 100 metres away also fronting onto the grass area.   Al very atractive and well maintained.

Altogether, we would thoroughly reccomend Soing, but don't be too late - the jetty is only 2 boats, or squashed up 3 to 4.  Although there were lots of hire boats on yesterdays and to-day's stretch of main river, Soing seems to be off their beaten track, as the 2 boats on it were both private (Germans - maybe the word has gone around in their circles, but missed ours).   The Navicarte only shows a bare mooring symbol there, although it is correct about the town's shopping facilities.

Even a carpenter advertises himself - could one get extra cupboards fitted?   Reckon fluent French would be a total necessity before even enquiring!

Slightly startled when 2 hire boats came past at 2000, almost dusk.   Locks ostensibly close at 1900 so had vision of them wanting to breast up (Our jetty is 15 metres - we are 15 metres)  However, they disappeared going downstream very fast.   They sometimes keep locks open on change-over days, when the hire boats can only get away late, so perhaps they got through to Soing.

 

4 September 2004    Saturday         Soing to  Autet/Quitteur       Petite Saone

Tranquil down river through lovely countryside.

Watered at Pont de Seveux, all amongst the hire boats.

Lunch awaiting sitting in shade at lock entrance awaiting conclusion of LK.'s lunch hour - we are back into that nonsence after 2 months!

Tried old favourite mooring - used 4 or 5 times before - just above Vereux, only to find whole river bank wired as close to water edge as poss.   Anti us, or anti fishermen?  Suspect the latter.   They just drive their cars as close to their chosen station completely regardless of signs, safety, or ownership.

Moored up just below bridge at Quitteur, settled down, nice bike ride round local villages along well used tarred tow path, connecting with minor roads where one can cut across the necks of the long river bends.  This long towpath is well used and popular - Rives de Soane, and runs from - I think - Gray to Soing, but parts are just track and not yet tarred.   Not absolutely sure of that!

Sitting quietly when heard an amplified voice speaking American Englash stating "on the left we have an English Narrow Boat".    Shortly thereafter down comes the original Purple People Eater, a small Dutch Barge/Schalk typy boat, very nice and neat, but with gunwales and sides painted blackcurrant yoghurt colour.   Saint Cecilia, Saint Cinthia??  Anyway - different!   The hailer was the driver, on his own in the wheelhouse.   The audience was partner (female) sitting on her own in front of boat some 8 metres from hailer.   Is not modern science marvelous?   Perhaps they should have used mobile phones - it would have been less public.

Bloke arrived 19.15 - please would we move - we were on his specially and laboriously dug out and prepared fishing station for Sunday!   Lot of talk and long silences - eventually inevitable - undertook to move fractionally - peeved.   Result of 2 negotiators negotiating without fixed plan or intention.

Dropped down a meagre boat's length after supper - more peeved, but perfectly satisfactory and safe, in that only 2 ropes ashore - both double with ends back on boat.

Calmed down and settled down!   One of those nights when the silence can almost be felt.  No main, or even minor, roads nearby, and no railways or aeroplanes.

 

5 September 2004    Sunday                        Autet/Quitteur   to Prantigny    River Saone

Hot, sunny, and later on strong wind.

Completely unaware - generally - of our fishing friend, who we think arrived about 0430!   Quite idiotic, admitted last night that no fish he caught would be eaten - just dragged out of the water, put in a keep net for the day, and returned to the river in the evening.

As we need to go shopping in Gray to-morrow, and we don't wish to travel beyond, or moor in Gray, have to "lose" a day between here and Gray - withing the next 12 kms or so - in other words we can spend a day doing profitable things like boat cleaning - or doing absolutely nothing.

The countryside - since Loing - has been flat river valley - pastures and maize principally.   It seems to be heavily settled, with lots of lovely little villages/towns/hamlet dotted all over, jumbles of red/ochre rooves, and cemwashed walls in pastels,  and nobody to be seen - all fast asleep?.   But there are plenty of people about - particularly fishermen, and probably, in area like this with the river, plenty of holiday cottages.

Down river 6 or 7 kms looking for suitable bankside mooring.

Difficult now-a-days - this area of the Saone valley - from Gray almost to Soing was a super lengthy of river when we first came up here, with dozens of places to stop..  Now it is getting more and more difficult each year., as good moorings are fenced off with wire right on the river bank (we suspect to discourage fishermen" or are "developed" with cabins and permanent fishing platforms, and more and more hire boats looking for the few remaining places as well as us.

Found one spot just above what we call "swans mooring" (we couldn't go there - were beaten to it by the enormous German cruiser that got "lost" at Forges d'Uzeman early in the week, and watches TV with his generator on all the time) where last year we spent a happy day watching a very large family of swans.  Spent half an hour improving with secateurs, saw and clippers, but really too short, however hard we tried.

Down another 500 metres, and ended up with a good spot on short clean grass right over the river oposite "swan corner".   The big white  cruiser who lost his way at Forges d'Uzeman entertained us - if one can call it that at their age - throughout the day by wearing less than the minimum of clothing, was moored on the spot we regarded as "ours" right overlooking the towing path, which here is the same one as we cycled on yesterday - well tarred, very smooth and popular..   Lengthened our mooring  a bit, and sat in the shade - the wind was strong and cooling, but even so the sun was hot and stingy - until about 1700, when we had to scratch around for little bits of shade for about an hour and it cooled right down.