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2007
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- 1.3 20 May to 26 May
2007
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- 20 May 2007, Sunday.
4 kms (canalside) beyond Plagny back to Nevers P. de P.
Canal Latéral ŕ la Loire.
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- Day of high and low drama.
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- Poured with rain all night.
Really heavy.
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- Fridge started to threaten it was low
on electricity at bedtime. It does this by hesitating to cut in
if available power is less than 12.2 volts., (by the same token it will
switch itself off if available power - whilst it is running - drops below
11.8 volts - idea is to "save" battery - bit daft as that is one
of the main reasons for having batteries - why "save"
them?). The actual symptom is a maddening clonk when cutting in,
followed by wobbly noise as it doesn't catch properly, then a repeat, as it
"tries" again. Checked available power. 12 .8
volts - the thing was being silly - first night on engine charging by day,
and battery only at night. Spoke to it extremely firmly, and no
more trouble.
- Still pouring rain in morning, so did
a bicycle runner back to Plagny for bread (boulangeries shut to-morrow -
Mondays - and my siege complex is soon going to require psychological help)
set engine to run to charge batteries (sucks to fridge), hung wet clothes in
shower, and settled down at computer to do log, etc.
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- 2 hours later decided to go
on. Stopped engine to check starting - in spite of repairs in
Crown Blue Line base it had still been playing up, occasionally, as for the
last (!) 4 years.
- No start. Tried everything, just
that maddening click from the starter solenoid, as before. Had lunch,
but didn't feel like eating a lot - visions of having to be rescued "by
some time next week", long out of electricity for water, fridge,
etc. Panic mode approaching. Remember Herself had
said once that the thing sometimes pulled itself to-gether after a period of
main engine cooling off, so attacked offending solenoid with a cold wet rag,
and went off and talked amongst myself for a spell. Rang CBL to see if
there was anyone about that could help me - Sunday, of course, and all
Sunday calls go through to their head office at Castelnaudray on the
Midi! Promised to ring back with ideas. Went on
fiddling with starter, talking nicely to it, discussing it's parentage, it's
likely future, etc, and suddenly - off it went and started the engine.
Didn't dare switch off and see if it worked again. Upsticked mooring,
turned in the canal - possible half inch to spare as we got round - quite
scary - and headed for Nevers embranchement, and the very sophisticated P. de
P. complete with electricity, water, mechanics (presumably) and everything
at the end of it on the River Loire. Heading well down the embranchement
when phone call - mechanic who did the job would be out
to-morrow some time. Good show - the base mechanics are there to
look after their hire boats - not indigent winter moorers,
- Ultimate - moored up in heavy
thunderstorm, tried starter, and it worked beautifully. However,
it is obviously unreliable, and I cannot wander around French waterways
wondering if engine will start again every time I switch it off.
We'll see.
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- Pleasant reasonably peaceful night in Nevers - every time I tried the
engine it started! They gave this P. de P new pontoons last
year, and they have really done it well. Overnight - water plus electricity
- €8.00. Later on in the season the swimming
pool complex - in the old end of canal into river lock - gets very
busy. There are several, again very sophisticated, pools - very
neat and tidy.
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- Did a wander round and up to the centre of town to the in town Super
Market, and boulangerie. Covered myself in glory at the
Supermarket by buying a box of dishwasher tablets instead of clothes washing
ones.
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- The one way traffic system, combined with centre of centre being around
the Cathedral, which in turn is on the top of the hill, all made for some
exciting cycling. The French are as good as the rest of us at
ante traffic pavement cycling!
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- 21 May 2007, Monday.
Nevers
Canal Latéral ŕ la Loire.
- Fiddled around in boat until mid-day, engine
still starting splendidly.
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- Embarrassment when mechanic arrived at mid-day
expecting broken down boat. He had a good look all round, and
assured me that there was now nothing wrong with bit he extracted and sorted
last week, but that one of his boats had done the same thing, and after
endless searching found an intermittently poor connection. As
this seems to have been the norm in several parts of the boat since for
ever, and, of course one cannot find an intermittent fault unless it is
faulty at that moment, there was nothing to be done except hope.
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- However, feel a lot more confident now than
yesterday, when it wasn't doing it's thing, especially as weather has taken
a major turn for the better.
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- Only thing is to press on and suck it and see.
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- Decided to press on this afternoon, but "improving" weather now
threatening, mooring comfortable, like it here, so didn't -
another €8.00!
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- Intrigued by way French can grow trees that are perfectly parallel all the
way up to make perfectly symmetrical rails, or have massive pencil sharpener
type machines that shave normal trees to make perfect rails - all identical.
- 22 May 2007, Tuesday.
Nevers to Cours les Barres Canal
Latéral ŕ la Loire.
- Warm and sunny.
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- Feel now that am really off. Got
away at 0915 but wretched hire boat (Germans) got away at 0900, and shut the
lock gates without looking back, so had to wait while the lock - automatic -
turned itself round.
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- No worry, really, no target, no pressure,
strong feeling (probably mistaken) that starter is going to
behave. Passed previous nights mooring, which looked a mess,
grass part cut, part flattened by rain, and part just
trampled. Noticeable that no canal side grass is being cut this
year, either along the canal banks, or in the "halte
nautiques". Looks a bit messy and discourages from
"bush" moorings as nettles rampant and grass seed heads come
pouring into the boat. Too bad! My new mooring
brackets/clamps are still proving to be just the biz.
Pleasant country - alternating huge expanses of maize under irrigation, and
small farm paddocks. Still flat Loire Valley.
Across the aqueduct that crosses the River Allier - a large tributary of the
Loire - down the double staircase lock at the end, and
moored up on the slightly
bleak moorings beyond it for lunch - classic example of the passion for putting
soft pea gravel down on moorings, rather than grass. All the small
ground up bits get stick to one's shoes, grind the paint off the foot steps, and
get into the boat! Nevers had bright red stuff, as does
Roanne, Found a tree just large enough to picnic under.
Fetched up at Cours les Barres, which has been a favourite of ours since
2000. A 6 to 8 boat length of tidied up bank, a bit of a jetty with
steel capping on the piles, some simple bollards, and an imaginative little
garden - largely bushes, with gravel walks and lawns up the hill to the
village. There is a boulangerie, and I think an epicerie, and, of
course, a bar tabac presse. It also has a masculine/feminine coifuriste
who is the tourist info bureau.! There is one electricity and one
water point on the moorings, and it is all free, so nothing else needed!
The view across the Loire Valley from the Marie - just up through the top of
the garden - is great, and is always a good place to sit and - possibly -
think.
Always, in the past, have found a kindred spirit moored up here - it's
a popular mooring - ready for talk and drinks, but thus time just 4 hurry along
hire boats. I was unintentionally slightly stand-offish, mooring
right at the far end, under the only tree, which is really too far for
electricity, but just made it with every last extension piece. Think I had
50+15+15+about 18 metres of cable out, and tried a wash to see if washing
machine would object to voltage drop resulting from too long a
cable. Far from objecting, it did the wash twice over without
pausing. This, however, may have been the result of my inadvertently
pressing one of it's buttons when I was discouraging the thing from disembarking
during it's spin drier walkabout process.
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- 23 May 2007, Wednesday.
Cours les Barres to 4 kms S of Charitie sur Loire.
Canal Latéral ŕ la Loire.
- Hot and sunny - really quite warm, making me
think that the sooner I re-build the bimini (collapsed for winter) the
better.
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- Watered before leaving - the flip side of the washing machine, water
consumption seems to be quite high.
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Marseilles les Aubigny for lunch. Tied up at a very smart
permanent jetty, that had the look of trip boat terminal all over it, but no
notices - except one clear of one end saying local facilities for exclusive
use of plaisanciers (that's us). No trip boat came, and indeed did not
see one on the canal. Would not have enjoyed moving - strong off
shore wind, and 2 or 3 hire boats swanning around awaiting the 1300 lock
opening.
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- Each year I pass through here Raymondo's yard seems to have yet more boats
rafted out around his workshops. It was here that we did our
first bottom blacking, when he was quite a small set up. He has taken
over the old hire base N. of the locks, now, with another dry dock there-in.
- During these last 2 days saw 2 loaded, and 1 empty
commercials. More than in the whole of last year on this
stretch! However, 2 swallows don't make a summer, and cannot
believe that the road transport lobby will permit a return to water
transport.
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- It was Marseilles les Aubigny's claim to fame that the Canal du Berry
branched off westwards here for Tours and the West and North
West. While there are organizations working hard to re-establish
the canal, it is like several of the English canals - the land was sold off,
the canal filled in, and little or no trace now exists But what
a masterpiece of a system it would be if one could encompass the South of
France, Brittany, north east France, the Low Countries, Germany, and
Eastern Europe. Even just being able to go across to Brittany
from the main French network would be wonderful. Not in my time,
methinks. Having said that, there are lengths marked on the map
as being "in water", complete with facilities, but not, however,
contiguous, and other lengths shown as "under construction" or
maintenance. However, between Tours and Angiers (on the Maine)
there is nothing marked at all.
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- Sad.
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- Ended up 8 kms up the canal on same spot as last year, my note in the book
being "revetts, cattle, shade". Suspect it actually
reads "revetts, nettles, shade". As
a mooring, OK, but a lot of nettle and long grass clearance was necessary
before comfortable, and had really traveled a bit far since breakfast this
morning to enjoy clearing the land, although did enjoy sitting in open with
well iced G & T.
Found I had lost one of my new fenders - cross! Cord had untied
itself.
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- 24 May 2007, Thursday.
Charities sur Loire to Bannay
- Found lost fender going walkabout in middle of canal - suspect it went
well down canal on surge, and then fortuitously back to me in the
morning. It certainly wasn't about last night.
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- Very pleasant motoring all morning, with usual adequate (at least 90
minutes) lunch stop no where in particular, where abortive attempt made to
moor up without leaving boat. This, of course, is the famous Sancerre and
Pouilly wine region, and the countryside is dotted with vineyards, between
the maize, grazing, and small grain crops.
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- Called in at St Thibault at tea time - had some thought that it would be a
good thing to moor here overnight, go to S.M., and do
things. Somehow
didn't feel like it, and although it was already 1615, decided to go on,
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- Moored up temporarily - visited 2 narrow boats in the dock at the end
having heard rumours that they were being painted, but no one about, no work
having been, or being done, and didn't know either boat, so - rather
foolishly - pressed on.
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- After pressing on out of St Thibault found that canal ran close alongside
a busy main road, so cursed myself for not stopping in St Satuur (St
Thibault - all same difference)
- Stopped canalside at 1730 where canal and road parted a bit, behind a fuel
depot. Tied up nicely - certain amount of grass clearing
necessary - settled down to G & T and supper, then every blue flashing
light and siren in this part of France came screaming down the road -
literally dozens of them. Worried stiff that officialdom
regarded a narrow boat moored inconspicuously behind a fuel depot could be a
terrorist threat.
- They continued down the road - fortunately. I could probably
manage the French for "I do not carry bombs on my little English
Barge", but would sooner not get involved.
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- Got IGN (equivalent to our Ordinance Survey) out to see that another 2 kms
the road crossed the canal and disappeared. Must keep more eye
on the maps and Navicarte, and read my old notes carefully.
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- It was actually quite a nice mooring - very quiet, and the fuel depot was
quite small, all on it's own out in the country, low and reasonably
unobtrusive.
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25 May 2007, Friday.
Bannay to Belleville
- Woken by a hotel boat heading south - passengers on deck
reading!
Wandered off in cool overcast weather about 0930, picked up bread at
canalside village, but arrived just above Belleville lock just too late to get
through before lunch.
Noticeable that the cooling towers at Belleville - 1 km from the canal here,
have been visible for the last 2 days - they are enormous.
Meant to have quiet afternoon of continuing to clear up, but first weather
turned iffy, then rained heavily, the fridge started behaving very badly
indeed. Same symptoms as last Sunday, refusing to cut in properly after quiet
period, claiming there is insufficient voltage to work it. Before,
it would pull itself to-gether after 4 or 5 attempts, and get away - now even
with mains electricity, it wasn't having any. Turned it off when I
went to bed, them tricked it into working for a bit in the middle of the
night - but obviously, it is sick.
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26 May 2007, Saturday.
In Belleville
Woke up to wet weather.
Programme was de-frost fridge, get it out of it's
sulks, and working properly again.
- Found trouble - feed wire by switch burnt almost
completely through - why? Poor connection to fuse holder, with too
much current going through it, causing heating?
- Anyway, replaced wire, replaced fuse, checked
connections, and all joy. A sweaty job, done largely kneeling down. (not
my current favourite position).
- Had to turn it down after, combination of
cooler weather and de-frost - couldn't get the ice out.
- Almighty thunderstorm in evening - right
overhead. Very heavy rain.